Questions Answered By Honda Expert, Ryan Basseri Of Rywire * www.rywire.com
What's going on guys? I've got something on the brain that I've been pondering for quite a while: I know that the CR-V is built on a civic chassis, and I've tried taking a gander at every '96-'01 CR-V that ever came into the auto center I was working at, but for legal reasons I can't start taking a customer's car apart for measurements (darn it). My question is whether or not it would be feasible to perform a 5-lug swap on my EJ8 with a 5-lug/rear-disc CR-V as the donor car. I know that a JDM CTR has 32mm axles for the front which is the USDM standard for B-series motors, whereas the JDM ITR has 36mm axles. Where does the CR-V stand, seeing as how the '96-'01 models are B20 equipped? As far as the rear is concerned, I'm curious as to whether or not I can maybe swap spindles and hubs (obviously not from an AWD model) between trailing arms? And as basic as I can put it: will the brakes fit??? The reason I'm wondering this is because, well let's face it, legit JDM CTR swaps are damn expensive and I don't want the hassle of opting for the cheaper ITR and having to get custom axles. Thanks a lot guys.
In a perfect world it would be a plug and play affair, but in this case, it's not. Anything worth doing is worth doing right. If you really want a 5-lug, I would suggest getting the Japanese EK knuckles and trailing arms. This gives you the added bonus of the larger brakes and the peace of mind in having factory un-modified parts on the most important part of your car. Going other routes can cause issues and you can run the chance or spending a lot of money on unforeseen parts.
No Fire In The Hole
First off, I have to say I have been reading the magazine for years now and you featured my good friend Steve Soto's K20 Turbo EG back in April '08. The reason I'm writing this is I'm having a problem with my '96 Accord. For some reason, all of a sudden, it started misfiring on the #2 cylinder and only the #2 cylinder right after I changed my plugs. But here's the thing: It only misfires between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM in any gear. It only happens when I baby the throttle, and only in drive, not neutral or park. When it starts to "sputter" or misfire, if I press the throttle a little more, it stops until I let off. I checked my gaps, made sure my wires were all snug and tight. Nothing changed. I have changed my plugs and wires 3 times, thinking maybe I got a bad set, but I even upgraded to bigger wires, changed my fuel injectors, distributor cap, and have done a compression check with #1-165 #2-165#3-170 #4-170. Could it be my ECU? Or is there something more that I'm missing? Please help, it's driving me insane! Thank you for the input and keep up the good work!
Mike S - Jacksonville, FL
Mike, one thing that comes to mind is the distributor. I know you changed the cap, but what about the rotor? Another is the wiring harness. Check that you have 12v power on the yellow/black wire and make sure the red ground trigger wire for the ECU is not broken or brittle. Lastly, re-adjust your valves. They could be out of spec and causing the misfire.
Time To Rally The Troops
Hi, my name is Joel and I want to say that I enjoy reading Honda Tuning. I have a Honda of my own and I love it. Right now it's just stock. I haven't messed with anything yet but I want to start. I am driving a '99 Civic DX hatch. Lately I have been on the internet browsing through Subaru forums and watching videos of Brats, GL Wagons, Imprezas, and so forth taking it off road. The first time I went mudding with a friend I knew I had to go again and do it myself. Could I enhance my Civic so I could take it on trails? Would I have to put in a new, more powerful engine? It's just the parts and setup that would be a challenge. I just don't know what to use. If you could help me out in any way, it would be great. Thanks!
The sky's the limit, Joel. I have seen some insane builds these days! The real weak part of using a civic for rally is the fact that it is front wheel drive. The Subaru is so successful because it is all wheel drive and makes a ton of power! So in this case I would sit down and decide if you have the space, funds, and desire to make your civic really off-road ready. If you decide to do it, use a beefy rear drive train, and add a turbo or supercharged engine setup to give your car the power needed to compete with the regulars. Another option is simply selling the Civic and picking up a car better suited for rally racing.
It's Just Paint.........Or Is It?
How's it hanging Honda Tuning?I have a '96 Acura Integra LS and I recently cleaned my engine bay. After giving it a nice bath I took a closer look at my block stamp and noticed that it is stamped red/orange. What does this mean? Do I have some type of special B18B engine? If you have any information that would be great. I can't find anything on the Internet (or maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places).
Dwayne, I have seen many engines with the orange paint over the engine code. Sorry to break the news to you, but it's nothing special. You'll notice bits of paint on various engine parts on many of the newer Civics as well.
Bigger Is Better
Hey Honda Tuning, I have an '87 Honda prelude and I'm about to drop a B16 into it.... can you give me any recommendations?
I recommend not using a B16a in a prelude chassis at all. The main reason being a lack of torque and overall power in stock form. I would highly recommend an H22a as a more reasonable option. The torque coupled with the larger displacement will be perfect! The price will actually be less with the H22a after all of the fab work is done making mounts, linkage, wiring, and everything else that would go along with the swap.
In A Quest For More Power
Hey guys, great mag! I have an H22a4 on my '96 Accord EX. I kept the automatic transmission and right know I'm using the stock Accord ECU. I know a P13 ECU would be ideal for an H22a1, but how about an H22a4? I constantly hear if anyone is planning on swapping an H22 into an Accord, to stay away from the a4. Why is that? What other ECU options do I have? I'm looking to increase my horsepower, not gas mileage.
Brian, the H22a4, for the most part, is a fine engine to use. However, one drawback is that it has limited adjustability on its distributor. Also, the crank and TDC sensors are not in the distributor itself. To make your life much easier, you can use an OBD1 JDM H22a distributor that has a cam, crank, and TDC sensor inside, as well as a coil so you don't have to use an external. But if you wanted to keep it external, you could always use the OBD1 USDM version. As far as increasing the power, I suggest the proper ECU and TCU that match the engine. You'll need a jumper harness for the auto ECU/TCU, and some extra wiring may be needed as well.
F Series Cover Swap
Great magazine guys, but I have a question I need your help with. I have an '01 AP1 that I want to change the valve cover on. My buddy has an AP2 valve cover that he said he'll give me for free, but I'm not sure it will fit on my motor. Are these interchangeable, or do I have to keep searching for an AP1 cover? Thanks, and keep up the great work, you guys rock!!
Yes! You're in luck, it will indeed fit. Keep in mind that you need to match the proper PCV to the valve cover, and that's really the only difference. It's always nice to have friends that will give you stuff for free!
Against The Grain
What up HT!? Is there any way to fit an S2000 intake manifold on a K20a motor swap? The reason being, I'd like to just run an intake from the passenger side front bumper straight up to the throttle body since it would be facing the passenger side. Is this possible?
Kenny, anything is possible my friend. You could weld the plenum on the K runners, but better yet, use an RBC K20 intake manifold and re-weld the throttle body on the other side of the plenum. The RBC mani's have the best flow for your setup and will yield the best power. In my personal opinion, just use the RBC and run the intake on the driver's side of the car like stock. This swap has been done countless times now, and nobody seems to have any major issues with the throttle body being on that side.
Intake Manifold Tech
By The Skunk2 Team
Love the magazine and I love Hondas. I have a '93 Integra with the candy red paint that you'll find on your website's Rides section. I have a Skunk2 68mm Throttle Body and Pro Series Intake Manifold that I'm trying to install but noticed that there are a lot of extra parts and vacuum hoses that the Skunk2 throttle Body doesn't use. I'm guessing that the one for the water lines gets bypassed, but what about the lines that go to the EVAP canister and back up? Do I cap those off or remove them completely? Also, I heard that the fuel rail needs to be replaced with a '94-'01 version, but can't I install mine backwards or modify it? What's a better fuel rail for around $100? Thanks for your time.
Antonio, Eagle Pass, Texas
You're right about bypassing the water lines. Skunk2 Pro Series throttle bodies eliminate the Fast Idle Valve, which you'd normally find underneath the OEM throttle body. The Fast Idle Valve heats up the intake charge, so getting rid of it is a good thing. However, you'll need to either splice the two hoses together, or replace both with a longer one. Pro Series throttle bodies also won't include vacuum provisions for the EVAP canister. Remove the vacuum lines from your canister and cap off the ports because you won't be using it any longer. Of course, this configuration is not street-legal since the Pro Series throttle body is designed for race-use only, but never mind all of that. Fortunately, you can connect your purge solenoid's vacuum line to the rear side of the Pro Series intake manifold. As far as the fuel rail goes, you're right; yours won't work, so why not cough up another hundred bucks, and just complete the package with a Skunk2 Composite fuel rail? Skunk2 rails are lighter and stronger than your stock one, fit like you'd expect, and will keep your fuel cooler for more power. Do it!