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1992 Acura Integra - Exhaust Notes

Comments, Questions, And Smart Remarks

Oct 1, 2009
Htup_0910_01_z+1992_acura_integra+crx_side_view Photo 1/3   |   1992 Acura Integra - Exhaust Notes

Questions Answered By Honda Expert, Ryan Basseri Of Rywire Www.Rywire.com

I just finished reading the response to the guy who was asking about the all wheel drive Civic. I'm not sure when this was asked, but could some one rob one of the SH-AWD systems from an Acura and modify it to fit a 92-96 Civic (or possibly make the civic's body wider)? I was thinking about taking parts from an RDX turbo and doing some custom fabricating for the rear end; just wondering if you have any advice or suggestions for maybe another car to borrow parts from.
Josh Mac

PS: In no way, shape, or form, will I, or anyone I know, steal a car in order to do this conversion. I'm referring to just parts from wrecks.

Josh, the AWD system is all electronically controlled, making it a very challenging unit to install into another chassis. If you were serious about this conversion and willing to do a lot of fabrication work, I would use a rear end from a car that has plenty of aftermarket support. Also, use one that is old enough to not be too complex, and that's close in size and length. Surprisingly enough, a 240SX chassis might be your best shot.

My name's Kris and I'm 17 years old out of Chicago, Illinois. I love your magazine and anything Honda for that matter. I drive an '03 E, and recently purchased a beautiful '88 CRX Si. Anyways, down to business. I would love nothing more than to get involved in the professional drifting or racing scene, but unfortunately I don't have many connections or any idea how to do this...Please help!!!!
Kristopher W.

Well Kris, the drag or road racing scene is going to be your best bet since the CRX is a front wheel drive car. If I were you, I would start with the basics on local tracks in your area. A modified suspension and a good wheel and tire package would be a good foundation. If you enjoy how the CRX performs, an engine swap could be a great upgrade. The platform you chose is a good one because of its light weight and ease of swap options. Keep in mind that the race world is extremely competitive, and you won't be at a professional level overnight. It takes years of practice, learning, and experience to get to that level.

I have done two swaps so far: a k20a2 Type-S into an EK hatch, and a k20a2 Type-S engine and complete dash into a '03 sedan. Now both are great swaps and I was able to find a lot of info online for these. But now I've found myself a '97 hatchback that I would like to put a '97 H23A SiR (blue valve cover) with a 5-speed LSD tranny into. I cannot find any info or details on this swap. I hear a lot of things like you'll need to dent the firewall and the driver's side inner fender for it to fit. But then I was told that's not true. Would you know where I can find a site with some good info on this swap? Also, I was told that the H22, H23, and other H series engines have a problem with their timing belt tensioner, and that I should address that before I install the motor. Would you know anything about that? Thank you for all your help.
James Spero

Looks like you have some good experience with engine swaps, and this H swap should be no more difficult than the other two. The first decision you need to make is what brand mounts to go with. I suggest Hasport because of the R&D and overall quality they put into each kit. The mount kit is going to make all the difference on clearances and the modifications you will need to make to the engine bay. For the Hasport mounts, all you need to do is make a small dent on the frame rail to clear the transmission case. Another thing you will need is some sort of wire harness modification. Here at Rywire, we do these modifications every day. The questions we would ask you are: what ECU will you be using? What intake manifold do you plan to go with? And is your distributor going to be internal or external coil? We can make your harness based on these three questions. After that, everything is fairly straightforward and should fall right into place.

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I was a VW guy for over 20 years, but now I'm a Honda owner. Can you give me a website for any Odyssey performance info? Also, what would be the correct 18 inch wheel and tire combo I could put on the van without any major mod's?
Jay

The biggest forum for questions and tech help that I've seen thus far is http://www.odyclub.com. They seem to have a large group, and a lot of categories and years broken down individually. As far as your wheels go, you SHOULD be fine with a 245/55-18 double plus size wheel. Welcome to the Honda club!

Hi, I need some advice. I don't know too much about K-series engines, but I just recently bought a base RSX and I'm already annoyed with it being only a 5-speed, and I need more power. I'm thinking about doing two things: swapping my block for a K24A2 or doing a tranny swap to my A3. I want to be able to take on a Type S. Please help me start my build. Love the magazine!
Shane Hunter

Shane, this will be no problem at all! You can simply change the block to the K24 from a TSX or Accord. The TSX block is the more desirable of the two. One tip is to use the old crank sensor, alternator, and miscellaneous parts from your original k20a3 engine to save a few bucks. The same will go for your transmission; find a six speed from the matching year ranging from '02-'04, or '05+ depending on the year of your RSX. You may also think about a k20a2 head to go along with either of your upgrades.

Love the magazine and I'm subscribing after I email you this. I just purchased a primer '92 Integra with an almost gutted interior, and it has a GSR V.I.N. It's powered by a D15B SOHC engine with a header and L series 5-speed. The previous owner had straight pipes hooked up to a cherry bomb! I feel like a goober driving down the street like this. My first question is 1) How rare is the vehicle? 2) Can this engine be built up for 250+ hp? What's a good source for OEM and aftermarket parts/distributors? I want to get started from a good source since this is my new project for my son and me. Please give me everything you can, because when we're finished with this, I'll holla back with "the finished product" . . .
Milton Jones

Wow, I'm surprised to see a SOHC engine in an Integra chassis, but hey, whatever works. The "L" series transmission is actually not the correct term. An "L" is from the Honda Fit. What you are looking at is the stamp on the SOHC transmission, and is not the series engine it came off of. The fact that you have a GSR chassis is very cool since there weren't that many made, and they're getting harder to find these days. However, if the car is not in great shape and has a non-original engine in it, it becomes a bit less on the rare side. Any Honda can make 250+ whp with enough money and engine upgrades. One thing you might consider is putting an original GSR B17a1 engine back in and either building the engine or adding forced induction if you want to break into the 250whp barrier. As far as aftermarket support, Google is your best friend. But some of the places I like to find new and used parts is the Classifieds section of nwp4life.com and Honda-tech.com. Also, check out passwordjdm.com. They import and sell Honda motors.

Hey guys, love your mag! I have a '96 Accord that I would like to lower. I had a '97 Accord that I dropped with an Eibach "pro kit" and loved it. I'm looking at ordering a set of coilovers from Ground Control that Eibach also makes. Are there any negatives to this product? Why haven't you guys installed them on any cars? I'm looking for the same benefits I got with the pro kit, but would like to play with the adjustment of the ride height. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Ed

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Hey Ed, for the most part, any quality name-brand coilover will be fine to use if you just plan on lowering the car and fine tuning the height to your needs. A lot of cars, including our own cars and magazine project cars, are running full-bodied coilovers. These use a threaded shock body that incorporates both the spring and shock into one unit. An aftermarket set of shocks is what you may want to consider if you do go with a sleeve type coilover like Ground Control. Using stock shocks with a sleeve puts excess stress on the shocks, and can prematurely wear them out.

I have '94 Civic 4door with a B18C5. I have everything I need to do the rear disc conversion, but I need the right E-brake cables. Can you point me in the right direction for the ones that will work with my car? A part number or source would be great. Thanks, and keep up the great work!
Larry from PA

I would recommend getting cables from a DC Integra 4 door. These should be a perfect fit for your set-up.

What's up, Honda Tuning? I have a '00 Civic Si with a stock B16A2. I plan on rebuilding it with Skunk2 Pro Series Pro 2+ Cams and Cam Gears with Skunk2 valves, valve springs, and retainers. I also wanted to throw in a set of .25mm-oversized CTR pistons. I wanted to get the block machined and the head opened up a bit-nothing too crazy. I want to build something that can be strong, reliable, and with a little bit more power. My question is: How much more power? I'm thinking more or less around the 200hp range. And how will the Pro 2+ Cams work with this setup? Are they too aggressive for a daily driver? Also, I can't decide on what size throttle body would work best. Hey, any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, great magazine...it's the only one that I sit in anticipation for. Keep up the good work! Thanks a lot.
David, Pittsburgh, PA

David, the Si's B16A2 puts down roughly1 60 hp from the factory. Generating another 40 hp without upping displacement will be challenging, and it won't be cheap, but it's doable. Fortunately, you're on the right track...sort of. Although the CTR pistons will increase your engine's static compression ratio, their oversized domes can disturb the flame front. Unless there's something wrong with your existing pistons, save your money, leave the bottom end alone, and focus on the cylinder head. There's power to be found by porting the B16A's top end and un-shrouding the valves within its combustion chambers. And that extra compression you were looking for with those CTR pistons can be found by adding a set of Skunk2 High-Compression Valves and/or milling the head, depending on just how high you want to go. The High-Compression Valves bump compression by roughly 0.3:1, and without altering piston-to-valve and valve-to-valve clearance. With the valves installed you can measure the combustion chambers' volume and figure out how much (if any) you need to mill from the head. As for cams, Skunk2's Pro Series Pro 2+ Cams are perfect for high-compression, daily drivers, but you will need an upgraded valvetrain and a tuning solution, as the modified primary lobes will require fuel adjustments to retain a stock-like idle. Of course, don't forget to degree the camshafts for optimum power and to bolt on a pair of Skunk2 Cam Gears so that you can fine-tune your setup based on your preexisting and future modifications. Pair all of this with a Skunk2 Pro Series 68mm throttle body; tuning time on the dyno; more fuel; a quality header, intake manifold, and exhaust system; and you're well on your way to 200-plus hp. - Skunk2 Team

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