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Exhaust Notes - Editorial

Comments, questions, and smart remarks.

Ryan Basseri
Aug 9, 2011

I’m having some trouble sourcing advice, parts or a decently priced transmission for my build; I’m putting in a JDM F22B DOHC non-VTEC turbo in my ’90 Accord. Got the car for free and always wanted to have it push boundaries. Many people here are working and rolling on the normal tuner cars like the 270Z, 370Z, GT-R, Civic, CRX, Supra, EVO, muscle car, etc. The CB7 is sort of frowned upon here, and I want to own the only one in town (if not further) that can make them take it a little more seriously. Work is way too busy for me to mess with it now, but I do have the income to support it, so I’m going to have the engine professionally torn down. It’s not a solid deal, though, as I’m trying to find a gear set conversion or transplantable tranny for the build. Know of anyone who can source the needed parts, or am I asking too much of the car?

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The CB7 Accord might not be the lightest, most beautiful or most desirable Honda in the fleet, but the platform can accept basically any engine Honda makes. If the Accord is the car of your dreams, then I think that you should have no problems making it the “boundary pusher” that you desire! The F22 transmission should be fine for a low boost setup, and the most you should need is an upgraded clutch. You should have little trouble sourcing a matching transmission from a parts yard or a reliable Japanese importer of used parts.

I just did a motor swap in my ’92 Honda Prelude and I took out the H23A and put in a H22 JDM motor and transmission, but the person who did the work for me is saying the transmission bracket from the H23 doesn’t fit on the H22. I know that the U.S. H22 and H23 brackets are the same, but is the JDM H22 transmission bracket different?

Amilio, I’m sorry but you haven’t included enough info for me to properly answer this question. You should just use all OEM mounts and brackets from your Prelude. The problem may lie in the transmission being used. Another possibility is an auto-to-manual conversion. If the chassis was auto, you’ll need a passenger side-mount bracket from a manual Prelude, or you can redrill the hole. The final recommendation is to look into an aftermarket mount kit. They generally come with brackets and you can specify your swap and chassis. I would suggest doing some searching on web boards and ask on there! Good luck with the project!
I truly thank you, Honda Tuning magazine, for the support and advice on my current B18C build. As such, I have another question regarding the clutch system.

The car has a Carbonetic clutch system currently, and is more for race applications. It requires a warm-up, otherwise it slips and there is shudder when engaging. The pedal feel is also stiffer than stock. Sometimes if driving normal and I press the clutch, shift into another gear and try to accelerate, I get slippage. Not cool!
My car is a daily driver, so pedal feel and comfort are important to me while having the performance aspect. Also as age would have it, my left knee is starting to remind me I’m not as young as I think. I’m considering either the ACT SP pressure plate with a G6 road racing and high-performance disc (A14SPG6) or an A14SPSS setup. I have to take into consideration the current upgrades done to the car and what I plan to do, like cams, gears, etc. Which setup do you think will offer what is suited to my needs? If nothing above, what will you recommend? I don’t drag race the car. I like speed and performance.

Romeo, I have used the SS clutch on one of my old CRX builds and was very happy with the performance, reliability and drivability of the unit. Act has some great products, and I think you will be very happy with any choice from the company. As for the pressure plate I would for sure recommend the sport or the heavy-duty version. I’ve used the heavy-duty and really liked it, but I can see it being a little harsh for daily duty. With that being said, the sport would be the unit for you. It will offer great feel and a very nice upgrade over the OEM pressure and holding capabilities.

Hello, I’m building an LS/VTEC for my ’92 Integra, and I just got a ’00 Civic Si VTEC head. I’ve heard that I’m supposed to use a P2T ECU. Will that plug right up to my Integra, or do I need a jumper harness for the P2T ECU? If so, where do I get one?

Albert, the P2T ECU is a ’99–’00 Si computer. It looks for sensors like a secondary 02 , secondary crankshaft sensor, knock sensor, etc. To use this ECU, you’ll need to add these sensors to the system. Another drawback to this ECU is that you can’t tune or reprogram the computer in any way. My suggestion is to use the original ’92 ECU and have a professional chip it for you to run a program like Hondata, Crome or Uberdata. offers chipped ECUs preprogrammed with base maps for under $200. This is an easy, affordable method and doesn’t require a jumper harness for the ECU. If you plan to use the ’99–’00 Si distributor and injectors, you might want to check out my website for the proper OBD-I to OBD-II distributor and injector jumper harnesses.

I just read Ryan Basseri’s “Ignition Breakthrough: Coil-on-Plug Applications” article from the June 2011 issue and was intrigued. I love performance, but fuel economy is very much on my mind. My wife has a ’99 Integra four-door auto, and I have a ’93 two-door manual. My focus is mainly on the ’99 sedan. It is getting 21 mpg city and 29 mpg highway (which is what the sticker said it should get), but I want to improve that. It’s stock, by the way. Will the basic coil system work to improve fuel mileage on a stock setup as well as a little performance boost? And would the K-series coils be a more affordable option?

Xavier, the coil system that I was writing about in “Ignition Breakthrough” was focused solely on the use of an aftermarket engine management system. The problem here lies in the fact that custom computers are not always designed to control an automatic transmission. Another very big issue is price. After you’ve finished purchasing the necessary pieces to complete the system, you’re looking at over $1,000. This fact alone will more than likely sway your decision against using the coils for a fuel-efficient upgrade.

By Ryan Basseri
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