Project Cars Under 10K Cover
Project Cars Under 10K Cover

Selecting a project car is a major investment and a proper plan will really give the build-up traction and save some pain in the wallet. There will be some universal compromises, maintenance versus mods, mileage versus price or choosing the lesser of two evils. Will the car be used as a driver during the project or will it be left at home in the garage? Does the plan call for a turbo conversion or motor swap? These questions will dictate the importance of the engine—a non-running car will cost less. If you plan to drive the car then engine condition and mechanical maintenance are critical. A good game plan will ensure you get the best price and the best car. Is body condition important? Do you care about the interior? A race car will be stripped out anyway but a street car will need its creature comforts. The bottom line is to buy the strongest individual car, weighing its pros and cons against price. Ultimately, the project platform purchase is a multi-axis balancing act and to get you off on the right foot, we offer this guide of popular platforms with an under-$10,000 entry fee. Remember, it’s okay to go for the glory but know the car’s story.

1984 - 1987 Toyota Corolla
Price: $2,500 - $4,500
JDM counterpart: toyota sprinter Trueno, Corolla Levin
Original Goods: The original drift weapon from the touge days in Japan, star of Initial D and an icon on both sides of the Pacific, the AE86 Corolla GT-S is still a primetime player all these years later. In Japan, the AE86 came in many variations, including two different front ends. The Sprinter Trueno came with pop-up headlights like our US models, while the Corolla Levin has a fixed lamp design. The big draw here is the rear-wheel-drive of this era Corolla. The big difference between a GT-S and an SR5-trimmed Corolla is all under the hood. The SR5 has a carbureted 4AC engine while the GT-S sports an electronically fuel-injected 4A-GE rated at 122 horsepower.
Quirks & Problems: When it comes to AE86 problems, Bob W. from Drift-Office, an Auburn, Washington-based tuning shop, could write a book. The man owns 14 Hachi-Rokus. After checking the body and chassis for rust, Bob says brace for motor issues. “You are looking at a 25-year old motor; that’s a quarter century. Most of them are already on their way out. Also be on the lookout for orifice leaks. In order of most common leaks; distributor, front main seal, cam seals, rear main seal and finally valve covers.” Fuel tank rust is a concern. The fuel gauge sending unit is either always inaccurate or broken. Bob says he’s also been actively replacing fuel pumps due to contamination from rust particles. The rear differential is also a contentious area. Typically the ring and pinions haven’t been maintained and most diffs that Drift-Office has seen haven’t even had a fluid change in 20 years. “If it whines as you drive, it’s a $1,000 fix,” says Bob, “not including the LSD, if the car has one. A factory ring-and-pinion setup is about $530, plus bearings, plus setting it all back up. While you’re at it, the axle bearings should be replaced as well, $130 a pair for those, plus machine shop labor to cut them off.” Work the gearbox on your testdrive. GT-S transmission synchros are usually well-worn as the #2 and #3 gearsets are the usual suspects. Bob warns, “As the old adage goes, ‘you can get a Corolla for free, but it’s still going to cost you!”
Best Year: Toss up. The real AE86 question here is best body style: coupe or hatch?
Popular Mods & Swaps: Bob says the 4A-GE is equipped with an AFM so nothing in way of electronics can be used to gain performance, everything has to be mechanical at this point; cams, header, short ram intake and an exhaust would bring the car up to about 120 whp from the 4A-GE’s 98 to 103 stock whp output. Swaps start with more evolved 4A-GEs like the Silver Top 20-valve from 1992-1995 AE 101 Corollas or Black Top 20Vs from AE111 Corollas from 1996, the latter rated at 170 hp. From here, swaps become exotic as we’ve seen engines as wild as a Honda F20C from a S2K or a SR20DET from the S-Chassis. How crazy do you really want to get?

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