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Auto Repair and Maintenance - Exhaust Notes

Nov 1, 2005
0706_htup_01_z+honda_accord_39_cents_stamp Photo 1/1   |   Auto Repair and Maintenance - Exhaust Notes

Got Questions, Comments, Love or Hate? Send your letters to: editorial@hondatuningmagazine.com. Snail mail: 2400 E. Katella Ave, Ste. 1100, Anaheim, CA 92806



Totally RadYour magazine is totally rad. You guys do great work-thank you! Anyway, I have a 1994 Acura Integra LS. I plan on doing a motor swap but I haven't decided what motor I want to use. I really want a B18C1 (GS-R) with a Vortech blower, but I can't afford it. So I'm thinking about doing a B16A2 swap. Is that a good idea? I'm also wondering if the front and rear bumper from a 1998 Integra will fit on my car. Again, your magazine is the best. Keep it up!Kevin R.Via the Internet

We recommend buying the B16 swap, however, you shouldn't be using the whole thing. Your best bet is to go with an LS/VTEC setup. Take the B16 head off of its block and bolt it on top of the LS bottom end.

You'll also want to use the B16 tranny, as the gear ratios are far more performance oriented than that of your LS tranny. You'll need a few extra parts, but the difference in power between using the LS bottom end and the B16 bottom end is enough to justify it.

As for the bumper swap, there is a little more to it than you may think. The '98-and-up rear bumper will bolt right on in place of your '94 bumper. The front end is a bit more tricky because you'll need not only the bumper, but also the headlights and corner lights to go with it. Also, if you really wanted to do it right, you might want to think about swapping the taillights and adding a USDM Type R lip to really bring everything together. - Dr Barrios



J1? You Sunk My Battle ShipFirst off, let me say that I praise the pages of your magazine. I am currently finishing up my '91 Integra LS/VTEC project. In searching for a tranny, I was lucky enough to score two J1 transmissions for less than $300.

Where my problems begin is in the lack of information on this JDM item. I have visited many forums and received mixed answers on issues such as gear ratio(s), clutch ('90-'91or '92-'93 Integra), and the interchanging of parts with other transmissions in the B family. Can you answer these questions so I may further progress in my mission? Thank you.Sgt. Joseph Watson, USMCFalls Church, Va.

The J1 is a great tranny and will be far better than the tranny that you probably have stock in your LS. The Y1 limited-slip differential will fit in the J1 if you use the Y1's countershaft. You could also use a Type-R limited-slip diff if you put a 4.40 final drive on it to make it fit. There is no way to fit a larger final drive (such as a 4.7) in the J1 case without seriously modifying the case. You'll want to use a '90-'91 Integra clutch with the J1; the '92-'93 clutch will not work. - DB



Third-Gen Prelude PredicamentI recently purchased a 1989 Honda Prelude Si. I really like it but the engine is weak on power and it's starting to burn oil so I'm considering a swap. I haven't found much on swaps for these cars, but I'm looking at either a B16 or H22 (VTEC). Do you know which engine, if either, will fit best in my car? Any information you can give me on a swap for my car would be awesome. Thank you.Josh BagnatiOld Saybrook, Conn.

I have a 1989 Prelude with a JDM B20A swap and am looking to supercharge it, but I can't seem to find any site or magazine that sells superchargers for my year or engine. Where could I find one? Or is there one off of a different Prelude/Civic that will fit without any crazy mods? Any help would be appreciated!Travis LuthiVia the Internet

First of all, I'm a loyal reader and the tech support is phenomenal. I read every issue to glean information about making more power in my Honda. I just purchased a '91 Prelude Si with a B21 engine. I've been looking for performance parts for it without luck. I was thinking of doing an H22 swap since it looks like it will fit. What would I need to make this swap work or is there a better swap for this car? I would appreciate your help.Damian r. CuencaVia the Internet

We receive questions about motor swaps a few times a month from third-gen Prelude owners looking for more power. Unfortunately, the B20A in that particular Prelude is the bastard child of the B-series family. It shares no parts with the rest of the more common B-series motors and, most importantly for would-be swappers, it doesn't share mounting points either.

To make a swap work in the third-gen Prelude, a set of custom motor mounts, axles and shift linkage need to be made to even get it to sit in the car. For all of the money it would take to put a DOHC VTEC motor in a third-gen, you could just buy a fourth-gen with an H22 already in it.

On a lighter note, there's hope for you third-gen Prelude die-hards. LSD Motorsports is rumored to be offering a turbo kit for your car soon. Why pay a ton of money to swap when you could boost for half the price and make more power? Check out www.LSDmotorsports.com for more details. - DB

D16 Or A Glass Of Milk?I've been working on my D16Z6 for a couple of months now. As the father of a six-year-old and a one-year-old, it's a little hard having to choose between milk and parts. Most of the time I opt for the milk.

So far I've got a DC Sports header, Random Tech cat, Magnaflow exhaust, AEM V2 cold-air intake, AEM fuel rail, AEM cam gear, Brembo cross-drilled and slotted rotors on all four corners, B&M fuel regulator and a B&M fuel pressure gauge. I have AEM Tru-Power pulleys on the alternator and power steering, which leads me to my first question. I got a really good deal on eBay for an Unorthodox Racing crank pulley (#0206105), which is their Type S, and already has some underdriving on it. Is too much underdriving going to hurt (UR crank pulley plus AEM Tru-Power pulleys) or can I run both and use the advantage of the lightweight on this pulley?

Secondly, I also got a good deal on a Fidanza 7-pound flywheel. I was going to install it with a Clutchmasters FX300 set since my clutch release bearing is starting to make a nasty noise. And I was thinking about getting a Civic 2000 EX transmission, which should fit perfectly and give me better gear ratios since my tranny's third synchro is starting to go. (It lasted a long time-my '94 Civic EX has 204,000 miles on it.)

Thank you for all the info, and mostly for keeping all the dreams in my head a reality.Jorge GuzmanVia the Internet

To answer your first question, we have seen the D16s suffer from crank damage due to the use of the aftermarket underdrive crank pulleys. The D16's crank pulley is balanced. When it comes to day-to-day driving and reliability, this is something that should not be thrown aside in the name of a minuscule performance gain. You (and your children) do not want to end up stranded on the side of the road, just for a 1-lb-ft increase in torque.

I am using the same under drive accessory pulleys myself on my '94 Civic four-door. Stick with those and concentrate on other parts of the engine, like building reliable, street-driven power on the D16.

A flywheel that light is another modification that will not help much, if at all, on a mildly modified street-driven D16-powered vehicle such as yours. A 7-pound flywheel is severely light and will not suit the characteristics of power production on the D16. That flywheel will also make clutch technique in normal driving difficult. Try an 11-pound steel flywheel instead.

I can relate to your groceries and go-fast parts budget. Judging from your setup and your particular usage for the car, I would start optimizing for the breathing modifications that you have already spent time and money on. The June '05 issue of Honda Tuning featured an article about low-buck grassroots engine management systems. Look into that; an adjustable cam gear and possibly a camshaft upgrade, along with some dyno tuning to extract the enhanced breathing potential of your D16Z6.Mike "4dr" WaddellAdmin @ www.sohchonda.com4dr@sohchonda.com



P28-A Jack Of All TradesHey, great mag, thanks for all of your help with my H22 swap project. I would rather not install the EGR system on my H22. From what I understand I'll need a different ECU for this. Most of my buddies with B-series motors run P28 ECUs from EG SI/EXs. Can I run this ECU? Is it a plug-and-play affair, or do I need to get it chipped? If I do need to chip it, what chip should I run?Anonymous

There are a few things that need to be addressed here. First, if the reason why you are opting for the P28 is solely to ditch the H22's EGR system, you might want to think twice about it. The EGR system only opens under light load (i.e. city driving, idle, etc.). Under high load, the EGR system is not doing anything at all, and therefore is not going to inhibit power production.

You should go with a P28 for its tuneability. "Chipping" the P28 with a P13-based ROM is very possible and has been done many times. Other than socketing and programming the ECU, it should be a plug-and-play project. You'll definitely want to do the programming at the dyno; it will need to be dialed in.

Your other option is to go with an aftermarket engine management solution such as Hondata. We used a P28 with a Hondata S200 box for our turbo H22 build in this issue. After tuning, it ran beautifully. - DB



GS-R Butterflies In The StomachI own a '96 Civic EX coupe with a '95 GS-R swap in it. I've got all the usual bolt-on mods (I/H/E), and it runs great. Right now I'm running it with a chipped OBD I P28 computer.

I've heard that secondary intake runner operation will be lost if a P72 ECU is not used. Is that correct? How do I know if the secondary intake runners are operating, and how much of a difference does it make if they are not operating?Andrew HopeDix Hills, N.Y.

Secondary butterfly operation will not work with a chipped P28 unless additional hardware modifications are made. It's not that hard to do the mods, but it is important to know how the IABs are wired.

It's easy to check-one wire on the IAB plug always runs to the ECU, and the other will run to either 12 volts or ground. Go to www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view/Library/Ad-dIABToP28 for instructions on what to add, and make sure you pick the procedure that matches how your IABs are wired! After your ECU hardware is assembled, you will need to make sure that your chip has IAB support, as this is often missing from common aftermarket chips.Dave "Blundar" BlundellAdmin @ www.pgmfi.org



Remember: if you don't have anything nice to say, be sure you say it in a grammatically correct manner. Also, be sure to provide us with some information-your name, address (most importantly the city, state and country you reside in), and an e-mail address or phone number that we can reach you at.

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