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Auto Repair and Maintenance - Exhaust Notes

Questions, Comments, Props, Hate

Feb 1, 2006
0706_htup_01_z+honda_accord_39_cents_stamp Photo 1/1   |   Auto Repair and Maintenance - Exhaust Notes

I Drive a What?I am embarrassed to say that I have no idea what an EM2 is. I know all the other cars like the EP3, DC5, EG, but what is an EM2? If I had to guess, I'm going to say that it's a 2001-2005 coupe.

Also, I currently own a '04 Civic EX and finding parts for it is like looking for proof of Bigfoot. I would love to turbo the little D17, but then again, there is that K20 swap that will cost me my entire pay for a year and my first-born child. Can you point me in the right direction?Robert

2017 Honda Civic
$21,500 Base Model (MSRP) 31/40 MPG Fuel Economy

You got it right on the money. The EM2 is the 2001-05 Civic coupe chassis code. Check the VIN number on the dashboard of one of these cars. The 4th, 5th and 6th digits will read EM2.

When it comes to performance for newer Civics, money is usually the limiting factor. A K swap is expensive, but most of the turbo kits out there are not too cheap, either. Check out the turbo offerings from Stafford Fabrication (www.staffordfabrication.com) and Dezod Motorsports (www.dezod.com).

Both make a bolt-on turbo setup for your D17-powered Civic. Both kits are in the $3000-4000 range and include all the parts you need to move the needle on your boost gauge. There are a couple of guys with custom turbo setups out there, but it takes solid fabrication skills to make it work. Still, a custom setup might even save you a bit of dime and end being exactly what you want.

These turbo kits make similar power to a stock K20, but the delivery is different. A naturally aspirated K20 will almost always be quicker then a stock block, turbo D17. For you seventh gen Civic guys, these are your two basic options. If you find something else out there, let us know. We want to see it.



I Am Completely Vexed...Hey HT, I just bought a new intake manifold for my D16Y8, but there isn't a flat surface for the IACV to be mounted on. Is there a way I can remotely mount it? Sam

An idle air control valve (IACV) is simply a way for the ECU to let a bit more air into the intake manifold without opening the throttle body. Normally, the IACV will pull air from in front of the throttle butterfly and feed it into the intake manifold. In your case, all you need to do is get the air from the output side of the valve into your intake manifold's plenum. The easiest solution would probably be a plate adaptor.

Take a piece of sheet aluminum and drill holes corresponding to the bolt pattern of the IACV. Then, drill holes for the input and outputs of the valve. It would make the job a bit simpler if you used an OEM gasket as a template to drill your holes. Once the holes are drilled, tap the output side for an NPT fitting. Use a fitting that is sized according to the diameter of the hole with NPT threads on one side and a barbed section on the other.

Then, drill and tap the intake manifold's plenum to accept the same fitting. All you need to do after that is connect the two barbed fittings with a piece of vacuum hose and mount the IACV wherever it's convenient.



All mixed up.I plan on purchasing a B18C1 engine for my '95 Civic coupe. Is it possible to mate an Integra Type-R 6-speed transmission to a GS-R motor with little or no modification?Jon

The only ITR with a 6-speed trans is the DC5R with the K20 underhood, and no matter how much you want it to, a K series trans will not mate to a B series engine for the simple reason that the two engines spin opposite directions. Even if you could bolt the tranny to the motor, you'd have six reverse gears and one very short forward gear. Not, we expect, what you had in mind.

Stick with the B series five-speed transmissions. The B16, B18C1, and B18C5 are all commonly used because of their shorter gears and their ability to accept an ITR limited slip differential. Most of the parts between the three transmissions are also interchangeable. You can conceivably build the custom trans of your dreams with mix-and-match B series parts.



Belt Too Tight? Try Sit-upsI own a '95 Honda del Sol with a D15B7 engine. I recently read the issue with the Mini Me swap article and I got all of the parts to do the swap. But the P08 timing belt that came from the D16Z6 is a little short. What type of belt should I use or do I need to modify this belt? And would this belt last? Would it come apart at high RPM? Thanks. Rex

There are two belts that you can use on a D15 Mini Me swap. The D16Z6 will work, but like you said, it is a bit tight. The other option is the D15Z1 belt from a '92-'95 Civic VX. The VX belt is a bit loose, but using the stock tensioner can usually compensate for the slack.

The worst I've seen from using a Z6 belt is a slight whine at high RPM from being a bit tight. The VX belt usually has no problems. Basically, all you need to do is make sure the crank is turning the cam. Loose or tight, it will work as long as it isn't slipping or skipping teeth. We ended up using the Z6 belt on our Mini-Me project.

They Just Have Better BeerHello HT! I'm from Germany, close to Frankfurt. I've been reading HT for some months now and it's real great to see what kind of possibilities you have in the States. In Germany, every single part you add or change on your car needs a certain certificate. With this certificate and the already added part, you go to a guy from TV (which translated means something like "community of technical supervisors").

This guy then fills out another document, which shows that the part is added or changed in the correct way. Then you take this form and go to a local office of the German government. These guys then take the document and the papers of your car and add the mods into the papers of your car. You really spend a lot of time and money for this procedure but otherwise the car would not be street-legal anymore and you would get problems when the cops stop you.

Is it the same way in the States? Or, is it easier just to get a body kit or something like that?Thanks for your answer!Go on like that!Andreas

Greetings from Mannheim, Germany. I'm in the Army, stationed here, and I recently bought a 1991 CRX Si for $100. The stock D16Z5 motor is blown, but it has a short shifter and springs. I was contemplating purchasing another D16Z5 (because of the cost compared to a B16 swap), but I can't find any aftermarket support for it. The only thing swaying me toward the B16 swap is that the aftermarket for it seems never ending. I plan on staying N/A. Do you have any suggestions? Christopher

Andreas, to your point, German law sounds a bit like our CARB system here in California. To maintain street legal status, a modified car needs to use only aftermarket parts approved by the California Air Research Board. The aftermarket companies go through hours of testing and tons of money to make their parts legal for highway use.

When a car owner installs these parts, they're supposed to go to the state smog referee who will check to see that the parts are legal and are being used correctly. This works the same way for engine swaps. If the owner of a car would like to swap a motor into his car that didn't come in it from the factory, the engine first needs to be from the same year or newer. It also needs to be equipped with all of the necessary emissions control equipment found in the original chassis.

Which leads me to the next question. A B16 swap is a great bang for the buck mod for your CRX, Christopher. First gen B16 swaps should be a bit cheaper in Europe than here in the States. The cable-shifted B16s should be more abundant in Europe, as they were offered from the factory in a handful of European Hondas.

If you still can't afford the B16 swap, try looking into more popular D series motors like the D16A6, D16Z6, and D16Y8. There is just about every part imaginable for all three of these motors. You might also want to look into a dual-cam ZC, which is a D series offered in the CRX overseas. The major problem for you is that you intend to stay naturally aspirated. A naturally aspirated D series is a serious endeavor and it takes a whole lot of time and money to make them run with the big boys.

The B16 might save you money in the long run, if you are looking for naturally aspirated power, but don't rule out a turbo D series. A stock block turbo D16 will blow the doors off of just about any naturally aspirated B16 if done correctly. Good luck to both of you. Were glad to see guys making things happen over there on the Honda front.



Crossing My FingersHey guys, I just bought a B series transmission from a guy online. He said it was a GS-R tranny with an ITR limited slip and 4.7:1 final drive. How do I tell if this thing is legit? Is there a way to tell the LSD from an open diff just by looking at it? What about the final drive? Would I have to open the tranny up to be able to tell what is in it? Steve

Think you got hosed, huh? The differential is the easier of the two to discern. When you look at the differential from the side (where the axles go) you should be able to see right through it. If there is a pin obstructing your view, you have an open diff and some ass to kick.

As for the final drive, you'll have to break open the trans to tell. You'll need to count the teeth on the ring gear, then the teeth on the pinion gear. Divide the number of teeth on the ring gear by the teeth on the pinion gear and you should come up with something like 4.785 or so. Crossing our fingers for you, man.



Poorman's ITRI'm building a B series motor right now and need a bit of help. I'm kind of just putting together spare parts from all of my buddies to make something useful. Anyway, I'm going to use a B16 head on a GS-R block. The pistons are from an ITR. Will these all work together? What head studs do I use for this setup? What about the head gasket? Thanks for your help guys! I love the magazine. Exhaust Notes is great.Shaun

Not sure if you know this, but you're basically putting together an ITR motor from scratch. The B18C1 and B18C5 bottom ends are almost identical, save for the higher compression pistons in the C5 (which you're using). Also, the B16 and ITR heads share the same casting.

The ITR is a bit more refined from the factory and has a more aggressive valvetrain, but altogether they're very closely related. You'll need to use the GS-R head studs for your Poorman's ITR build. The GS-R head gasket will also work. Add some aftermarket cams and valvetrain while you're at it and you'll have an ITR motor for about half the price.



Remember: if you don't have anything nice to say, be sure you say it in a grammatically correct manner. Also, be sure to provide us with some information-your name, address (most importantly the city, state and country you reside in), and an e-mail address or phone number that we can reach you at.

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