Our Good Deed For The YearI have been working on my '85 Honda CRX Si build-up for the past six years. Up until about two years ago I really didn't know a lot about cars. So, I started doing a bit more research. In the "I Dream of Mugen" (9/05) article, I found out about RedPepperRacing.com. If it wasn't for RedPepper and HT, my CRX Si would probably be headed in the "rice" direction.
The Si is mostly stock, except for the custom muffler, but I plan on buying a custom carbon-fiber ZC hood with my upcoming tax return funds. I've got a few bolt-on mods and a couple of OEM interior upgrades, too. More are on the way.
Well, that's pretty much what my CRX consists of. As of right now, it's at a friend's garage having another EW3 dropped in because of a warped head and bad TPS. Apparently, a replacement throttle body is very hard to find. Further down the road, I am going to perform a D16A1 swap to go with the ZC hood. Thanks again.Anonymous
If we can push one reader toward "nice" instead of "rice" we're doing our job. It's good to know that we can have a positive influence on our readers. As far as your throttle body is concerned, the reason why you're having a hard time finding one is because the year of your car. The '85 TPS connector is different than that of a later models ('86-'87). Luckily for you, the voltage scales are the same. Just cut your stock connector off and splice in the easier to find later model TPS.
Serial For BreakfastI just bought a first-gen B16A mill to put in my '92 Civic Si. While checking out the motor, I noticed the number 7 stamped into the block under the B16A marking. What is this number? Can I tell anything about my motor's history using this numberTim Fields
The number you are talking about is the engine's serial number. Every motor JDM, USDM or otherwise has a unique serial number to distinguish it from one another. Our primary use for this number is checking whether or not a motor is stolen. If you plan on buying a motor, you can have this number run through the Highway Patrol database and they will let you know if it is legit. On the other hand, since you've already bought your motor, that could turn into problems for you. If you went to spicybseries.com and bought your swap for some ungodly low price, don't be surprised at what happens when the fuzz runs your serial number sometime down the line. If Johnny Law finds that the motor is hot, he'll impound your car, take your motor, then put you in jail for receiving stolen property. Even if you have a receipt saying you bought it legitimately, that oftentimes makes no difference. We, as import enthusiasts have to be extra careful about these types of things. The heat is already looking for swapped motors in our cars because the majority of swaps are not legal-whether they are stolen or not. Make sure the motor you're getting is legit, it might cost more initially, but it can save you a lot of hassle in the future. On a side note, here's a cool bit of trivia for you. Regarding first gen B16s, the 1XXXXXX series motors came from Integras whereas the 5XXXXXX series motors came from a Civic or CRX.
4 Doors With 3 LobesI have an '88 Civic sedan with a D15 motor. It's an automatic and the compression on it is terribly low. I also have an '88 CRX Si with a D16A6 and a manual transmission. How much work is involved in dropping the D16A6 motor with the manual tranny into the slushbox-equipped sedan? What about with a VTEC head on it? I've heard that some VTEC heads will raise my compression. That would be good right? Also, I was thinking of activating the VTEC with an RPM switch instead of going out and finding an ECU and harness. Will this work well enough? Or would having a VTEC ECU be in my best interest?Noe Ramos
You're in luck. This swap is pretty damn straightforward. Basically, everything you pull out of the CRX goes back into the 4-door's chassis the same way. You are just transferring all of the parts from one car to the next. The only thing you'll want to look into buying is a manual gauge cluster for the sedan.
A VTEC head will raise the compression of a non-VTEC motor because of its smaller combustion chambers (except in the case of the D16Y7). Your A6 has a stock compression ratio of 9.1:1. With a P08 head from a D16Z6, or the VTEC versions of the D16A, D15B, or ZC on top of your stock A6 block using a Z6/Y8 headgasket, you would end up with about an 9.96:1 compression ratio. Using a P2P or P2J head from a D16Y8, the compression would jump to around 10.33:1. In most cases yes, raising your compression is a good thing. More compression generally equates to more power, within reason. In general, as long as you stay below 12.5:1 on a street driven naturally-aspirated motor or 10:1 on a boosted street motor, you should be OK.
While you can activate the VTEC solenoid via an RPM switch, we wouldn't recommend it. With an RPM switch, you don't get any fuel enrichment for your high cam profiles. In other words, the ECU doesn't know the motor is on the big lobes and thereby can't adjust fuel and ignition accordingly. The best way to go is to use an OBD-I ECU, such as a P28, and the necessary hardware to make it work (jumper harness, distributor wiring, etc.). You might want to look into engine tuning options, like a Hondata system, to have a little more control over your engine. You will go faster in a tuned car then in an un-tuned car, hands down.
Accord-Ing To This GuyHow come you guys don't feature any CD6 Accords? I see just as many Accords rollin' around as I do Civics. There's gotta be JDM Accords out there. Maybe if you guys featured more Accords, more people will appreciate them. One other thing, can you convert the 4-lugs to 5-lugs? Thanks guys.Matt
We get letters all the time from members of small sub-factions of the Honda community (such as D-series guys, A-series guys, first-gen CRX/third-gen Civic guys, Accord guys, etc.) asking for more feature coverage on their preferred car/motor. Let's set the record straight here guys. We don't have CD6 Accord owners filling up our e-mail boxes with submissions, we definitely don't see too many on the show circuit, and there are even less on the race circuit. We don't build feature cars, you do. If there are hot CD6 Accords out there that are up to par with the Civics, Integras, RSXs, S2000s, and NSXs more frequently, show them to us. We want to see them. The same goes for D-series guys, EA-chassis guys, S600 guys or whatever.
For your five-lug swap, pull everything off of a fifth-gen prelude or a first-gen Odyssey and swap it over. Make sure to include the whole knuckle assembly and all brake components. The only things you'll re-use in the brake system are the lines.
Such A BoreA while back, I purchased a B16 throttle body that was ported to match my D16Y8 intake manifold. The problem is that on most throttle bodies, the MAP sensor is located directly above the bore. In my case, the throttle body does not have a space for the MAP sensor. I have asked around and most people tell me I have a weird B16 throttle body from the '88-'91, and that the MAP sensors are located on the firewall instead. If that is the case, will I be able to still use the B16 throttle body for my civic? Or, will I have to scrap it and look for a D16Z6/D16Y8 TB?Thanks!Byron
First of all, we're wondering how your B16 throttle body has been ported for an intake manifold whose 56mm bore is 2mm smaller than its own. But that is the least of your worries right now. All OBD0 (88-91) Honda MAP sensors were located on the firewall. If you were really intent on running this throttle body you could just connect a vacuum line between the throttle body and the MAP sensor, zip tie it somewhere and call it a day. The thing is, after all the hassle, you're only gaining 2mm in bore diameter. Your best bet would probably be to track down a B18B throttle body, which has a 60mm bore rather than the B16's 58. It also doesn't have a fast-idle valve attached to it and the map sensor is in a more conventional location. Not to mention you can usually pick one up on eBay or in classified forums for $25-50.
Just Overnight Them From Japan, Right?Hey can you please tell me where I can find a JDM backseat for my 91 CRX Si? I have been looking everywhere for almost 3 months now and have not found one yet.Sid
Finding JDM parts can be a hassle sometimes. For a lot of us, the hassle is what makes the JDM parts worthwhile. If the parts were more readily available, would they still be as appealing to us? Anything can be had with the right amount of money and persistence. If you're really intent on finding those back seats it'll happen. Contact the guys over at ICBmotorsport.com, or somebody from Password:JDM, or JHPUSA. These guys import JDM loot for a living. They'll be able to track down what you're looking for if you really want it bad enough and can convince them that you're serious about the purchase and you're not just blowing smoke. It may take a couple weeks or 6 months, but you'll have your JDM swag in your hands eventually, and the longer it takes the more you'll appreciate it when it gets there.
D.I.Y. GuyWhen I read you guys were cracking open the head of an S2K I got really excited. I must admit I am a little disappointed that I didn't get to see how the valvetrain is actually installed. Is it possible to do it yourself or do you have to send it to cylinder head shop? Are there special tools that are too expensive? I'm a firm believer in doing it yourself, but some things need to be outsourced (like sleeving). Is this one of those things?Greg Pantelides
Valvetrain components are something that can be installed on your own-if you know your way around a Honda motor pretty well. It is not a job for a beginner but it is by no means a job reserved for professionals. Basically, the only special tool you'll need is a spring compressor. A spring compressor is a tool that has a couple of little prongs that latch onto the coils of the spring and a large bolt that compresses the spring. A shop magnet helps keep track of the valve keepers when removing or installing them. The rest is pretty straightforward. If you're confident in your automotive skills enough to attempt the job, grab a Haynes manual for reference and have at it. You can do it, we believe in you, seriously.
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