Serial For BreakfastI just bought a first-gen. B16A to put in my '92 Civic Si. When I was checking out the motor, I noticed under the B16A marking there is a 7-digit number stamped into the block. What is this number? Can I tell anything about my motor's history using this number? Tim FieldsVia the Internet
The number you are talking about is the engine's serial number. Every motor, JDM, USDM, or otherwise, has a unique serial number to distinguish it from others. Our primary use for this number is checking whether a motor is stolen or not. If you are planning to buy a motor, you can run this number through the highway patrol and they will let you know if it is legit.
On the other hand, since you've already bought your motor, it could turn into problems for you. If you went to www.spicybseries.com and bought your swap for some ungodly low price, don't be surprised at what happens when some law enforcer runs your serial number sometime down the line. If he finds that the motor is hot, he'll likely impound your car, take your motor, and put you in jail for receiving stolen property, usually even if you have a receipt saying you bought it legitimately.
As import enthusiasts, we have to be extra careful about these types of things. The law is already looking for swapped motors in our cars because the majority of swaps are not emissions legal, whether they are stolen or not. Make sure the motor you're getting is legit; it might cost more initially, but it can save you a lot of hassle in the future. On a side note, here's a cool bit of trivia regarding the first-gen. B16: motors from the 1XXXXXX series generally came from Integras, while the 5XXXXXX series motors came from the Civic or CRX - Dr Barrios
Such A BoreA while back, I purchased a B16 throttle body that was ported to match my D16Y8 intake manifold. The problem I have is that on most throttle bodies the MAP sensor is located directly above the bore. In my case, the throttle body does not have a space for the MAP sensor. I have asked around and most people tell me I have a weird B16 throttle body from the '88-91, and that the MAP sensors are located on the firewall instead. If that is the case, would I be able to still use the B16 throttle body for my Civic, or will I have to scrap it and look for a D16Z6/D16Y8 TB? Thanks! ByronVia the Internet
All OBD0 ('88-91) Honda MAP sensors are located on the firewall. If you were really intent on running this throttle body you could just connect a vacuum line between the throttle body and the MAP sensor, zip tie it somewhere and call it a day. The thing is, after all the hassle, you're only gaining 2mm in bore diameter. Your best bet would probably be to track down a B18B throttle body which has a 60mm bore rather than the B16's 58. It also doesn't have a fast idle valve attached to it and the MAP sensor is in a more conventional location. Not to mention you can usually pick one up on eBay or in classified forums for $25 to $50 - DB
Thinking About Thinking About A Nose JobI have a 1988 CRX DX. I'm interested in a JDM front-end conversion. Will a JDM EF8/SiR front bumper mate with my '88 Rex? I'm assuming I'll need a matching bumper support, and maybe a radiator support. What else is needed to complete this project? Chester B. Bell Via the Internet
You're right to think that you'll need more then just a front bumper to convert your CRX to a JDM front end. You'll need:
BumperHoodFendersRadiator SupportHeadlightsCorner LightsBumper LightsSide Markers
To complete the package, you'll want to add fog lights and a front lip to that list. Also, the side moldings on the JDM fenders will not match up with your stock door and quarter moldings. A set of JDM moldings will do the trick. Expect to pay between $1,000 and $1,500, depending on how complete of a conversion you're looking for. - DB
Balancing ActI have a '93 del Sol Si with a D16Z6 motor and a GReddy turbo kit. I am only running 6psi now, but I plan to turn it up later on. I am in need of a new muffler because mine is getting old and beat up. I already have 2.5-inch piping from the downtube to the rear bumper.
My question is: what is the quietest muffler I can get that will not hinder my turbo's exhaust flow? I have heard many people talking about running two mufflers back to back, or running a glass pack right after the cat. Javan ChappleAlbuquerque, NM
While we can certainly understand your concern about your exhaust note, we're not sure you're seeing it from the right perspective. When building a car, there will always be a compromise between power production and drivability, or tolerability in your case. You can make the most power with your setup by means of an open downpipe. Obviously, the converse is true of a little peashooter-sized exhaust pipe. What you'll need to do is find the balance of power and sound you're looking for.
We recommend looking into a straight-through oval style muffler rather than a round can type. Oval mufflers have more packing to quiet the exhaust down than a similarly sized round muffler. You'll want to run a resonator in the exhaust stream, also. Stay away from louvered, glasspack style resonators that will impede flow. Try to find a perforated tube resonator that will flow better and have less restriction.
You've already got a one up on the N/A guys by having a turbo. A turbo acts as a resonator itself, and when combined with a big resonator, reasonably sized tubing (2.5-3 inches), and an oval-style muffler, you'll probably hear more spool-up noise than exhaust - DB
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