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Questions and Answers - Exhaust Notes

Check out the questions our readers have which will be answered by our friend Ryan Basseri of Rywire.com.

Jun 24, 2010

Questions Answered By Honda Expert, Ryan Basseri Of Rywire www.rywire.com

Htup_1008_01_z+questions_and_answers+ryan_bassari Photo 2/2   |   Questions and Answers - Exhaust Notes

I have a '96 Integra LS and I want to swap the engine and transmission with an H22a1 and wanted to get 400hp out of it. I want to turbo-charge it, and was wondering what would be the safest way to do so running 8-10lbs of boost.
Nathan

Nate, swapping on a big turbo and boosting the stock engine will get you horsepower, but if its longevity you're after, you're doing this all wrong. You need to first have a reasonable power goal, and yours looks like it's in the 400whp range. This can be attainable in stock form, but will only last for a short time. If you plan to keep her around a bit, I suggest some bottom end work from a reliable engine builder. This includes a solid rotating assembly, upgraded rods, pistons, and hardware for the crank and rods. Next will be proper turbo sizing based on your horsepower goals and even a B series transmission conversion if that fits into your budget. I would do as much research as you can, pick a company that you like, and look into what turbos they have in your horsepower range. The next thing to research before buying the turbo is to find the correct A.R. sizing. The last thing to not forget about is finding the right person to properly tune your car. The key to a reliable turbo setup is a strong bottom end, proper turbo sizing, and proper tuning!

Hi my name is Andrew from Virginia and I'm looking to do an NSX brake swap on my '94 Del Sol Si and I'm confused on what brackets and other parts I need to complete the swap. Any information or help with this matter would be greatly appreciated.
Andrew

Andrew, I do not have a lot of info for you on this, but from my understanding you will need re-drilled 4x100 Prelude VTEC 11.1-inch rotors. This is if you plan on running the factory Del Sol Si 4x100 knuckles. Some slight trimming or grinding may be in order for a perfect fit, but overall, it's a fairly straightforward brake swap.

I have an '89 Acura Integra I bought last year. At 256k miles, the piston rings were shot and the clutch was gone. I bought a motor out of an '87 Integra with only 100k on it, and had a valve job done on my '89 head, and then swapped heads. I installed a new flywheel, clutch kit, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, thermostat, and all new seals. I swapped in the "new" motor, and it will crank, but will not fire. It's getting spark and great compression, but no fuel. There is fuel getting to the rail, and good fuel pressure, just no fuel past the injectors. I've checked every fuse I can find, but one of my friends says he thinks it is the main relay under the dash. What do you guys think it can be? I am clueless about this. The car ran great before the swap, other than burning more oil than gas and no clutch. HELP!!!
Jonathon

Jonathon, I wouldn't blame the main relay right away, because the ECU and the fuel pump are turning on. The main relay is fired up by the ignition switch, which then sends power to the ECU, then the ECU sends power back to the main relay to turn on the fuel pump. The first thing to check is the ground on your head, the ground on your transmission, and the ground on your thermostat housing for the wire harness. Next you need to check the injector resistor box, and make sure it's plugged in tight. After that, check the yellow/black wire at the injector box for power. It should have voltage with your ignition switched to position 2.

If that wire has power, then you need to check the firing order, and the trigger negatives back to the ECU Injector-brown, red, blue and yellow.

Those should be pinned into your ECU's "A" plug. If the continuity checks out correctly, verify you have power and ground at your ECU again.

Power wire is yellow/black (same as your resistor box) and black is the ground for the ECU. If everything checks out fine, I would then blame the main relay or even the ECU.

What's up Honda Tuning guys! First off, love the mag, it got me into Hondas and Civics. I just bought a 2000 Civic Si with the stock B16. Now I'm buying a B18c Type R to swap, and I was told it was an easy one to do. Do you have any big tips that might help me out? THANKS, and keep the issues coming.
James

James, first off congrats on the Si purchase-keep her safe! The people who told you this was an easy swap are correct, but it's not quite as straightforward as it may look. Sure it's a B series to a B series and all the parts are basically the same because the B18c shares essentially the same head, injectors, alternator, etc. The main thing you need to watch out for is the computer. Sure you can leave the Si ECU and jump the crank sensor wires, but who wants to do that? You are best off with the Type R ECU. If the ECU has similar plugs, but not exact, it's because it's a 2A ECU, and your car is a 2B. What you need is a "2B to 2A ECU jumper" so you can "step down" to the ITR computer. You can find these on our website: Rywire.com. It's an easy fix, and only takes seconds to install. The only other electrical issue I can remember off the top of my head is that the Intake Air Temp sensor is located on the intake manifold on the R engine, whereas the IAT is located on the intake tube on the Civic. Simply borrow the wire from the R harness and extend it over. The rest of the swap should be cake. Basically you're taking the same parts and just swapping the engine and transmission over.

Not sure where to send this, but...I have a 1995 Prelude Si (MT). The odometer and speedometer aren't working. Yes, I changed the speed sensor, and the drive gear (it had been stripped). If the gauge cluster fails, what are my options for replacing it? I don't think sticking another fifteen-year-old cluster in there is worth it.
Malcolm

Malcolm, since the odometer and speedo aren't working, I would just replace the whole unit. Unfortunately the Prelude has everything integrated so you cannot just replace the individual gauge. You could hit up "Big Mike" on nwp4life.com. I gave him a cluster last year and I think he still has it for sale! If not, head down to your local parts yard and source one. Hopefully you can get one that's close to the proper mileage. If it is not very close, you can always figure out how to roll it up, or down depending on what you find.

Unfortunately I cannot tell you how to do this, but I can tell you it is not as hard as you would think. Good luck!

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