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Questions and Answers - Exhaust Notes

Comments, Questions, And Smart Remarks

Jan 13, 2011

Questions Answered By Honda Expert, Ryan Basseri of rywire • www.rywire.com

I would like to make my '95 Honda Civic CX model into the VX model. Do you think I can swap the engine? Do I need to move computers over? What else might I need to do? I'm looking to get that 50-plus miles per gallon like on the VX. Love the magazine!
M. Peter Holmes (forever a Honda dude)

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Swaps like these seem to be a growing trend amongst gas savers these days. I have wired several EHs and EFs with this engine and we have seen fuel efficiency as high as 60 mpg! On the EF chassis, we've used the CRX HF transmission. With its super low final drive and tall Fifth gear, you can expect to see as low as 2,000 rpm at 65 mph. The swap itself is extremely easy, but wiring the VX ECU into a non-VX chassis is the fun part!! At Rywire.com, we offer a plug-and-play solution; you send us your original wire loom along with the VX loom, and we'll make a plug-and-play harness for your car. Basically what we have to add is the VTEC, VTEC oil pressure, EGR, and the air/fuel 02 sensor. The hardest part about the wiring is adding the air/fuel wideband 02 that comes stock on the VX chassis. After the wiring is taken care of, the rest of the swap should be near plug-and-play!

I've recently purchased Wilwood front and rear brake kit for my CRX Si and I was wondering what is the best Honda OE brake booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve to source for better braking performance with these larger brakes?
Dave Williams

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Dave, congrats on your brake upgrade, I have the same one on my CRX. I road race the car, and the brakes are amazing for the price! I personally run the DA booster and master along with the DA proportioning valve. Some people will tell you the 1-inch ITR booster and master is best, but for your brake size and car weight, I strongly suggest the 15/16-inch '90-93 Integra non-ABS equipped unit. With this setup and a sticky set of tires, there's no turning back, you're going to love it.

I have a '93 Acura Integra RS. I'd like to get in contact with someone to help me spec a killer motor. I don't know anything about what I need to get my motor to do what I want it to do. Maybe a little out of reach in my dream motor, but I would love to see how close I can get to it. Don't laugh, but I would like to build the motor to handle a massive amount of boost and possibly also throw some nitrous at it if possible. I'd like the car to run 10s without juice. Please hook me up with someone who can help me build this thing.
Shane, in Missouri

Htup_1103_03_o+questions_and_answers+honda_crx Photo 4/4   |   Questions and Answers - Exhaust Notes

The most important thing in this caliber of a build is research and quality parts. The parts are out there, I recently just got my engine back from Bisimoto Engineering where we had the block sleeved by Golden Eagle, Arias pistons installed, Crower rods, ARP turbo hardware, machined crankshaft, widened journals, custom cams, Bisimoto valvetrain, Portflow head, and the list continues. Granted, this is a K-series engine, but the principals are all the same. You put quality parts in, and you will get quality out! Here is the kicker; quality is needed in way more than just the engine. The turbo you choose must meet your horsepower goals as well as proper AR size, charge pipe size, and intercooler size. Don't forget about the fuel delivery system, engine management, electrical system, and last but not least, the transmission internals must also be upgraded so it is able to handle your power goal.

It will be a HUGE investment, and you should really think it over, but it is very much possible! For quality parts and outstanding service, contact www.bisimoto.com. They should be able to source anything you could possibly need. Tell them HT sent you!

In the Budget K article you said the only ECU is the CR-V, but what did you do about the IAB-style manifold? How did you bypass it? I want to change the intake manifold on my CR-V, but it throws a code for the IMRC. Any info that can help point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated!
Matt

Matt, unfortunately we had the same problem and there wasn't an easy fix. Unlike a GS-R engine, which has the same style intake runner system, the CR-V uses a continuously variable style unit, not the simple butterfly valves of the GS-R intake. And that's why you get an error for it. The simple fix is to get a CR-V intake. We did manage to get one for $75, but haven't had a chance to install and dyno test it. Another option would be to use an Element or Accord ECU, but then you run into harness problems because of their different pin configurations. That's how we were left with the CR-V ECU as the only choice. Your final choice would be a Hondata K-Pro or other system like AEM, but that sort of takes away from the "budget" part of the story. We'll get back on this horse though and test it with the Accord manifold, the CR-V manifold, and then some more good stuff to come. Tim Kelly - tech contributor

Let me start by saying that your mag is the only reason I check my mailbox lol! I love the mag and all the great tips you guys put up. OK, on to what I'm emailing you guys for. I just got my new clutch, it's an Exedy Stage II, and I want to pair it with the 12.5-pound ACT Streetlight flywheel. The trouble is, I accidently ordered an Exedy 9.5-lb flywheel. Now my question is, should I stay with the Exedy flywheel and the Exedy Stage II combo or should I go for the ACT Streetlight flywheel and the Exedy Stage II? There's only a 3-pound difference between them. I don't know if it will be too light of a flywheel for my ITR motor, which is stock other than a JDM '98 spec header.
Anonymous
P.S. This is also my daily driver

On a daily driven setup I would strongly suggest the most streetable flywheel. Of course the "most streetable" is a loose term, open to interpretation. The Integra R flywheel in stock form is lighter than the other B-series flywheels, and is always a great choice. If your heart is set on aftermarket, I would say the ACT 12.5lb would be your best bet, though the Exedy 9.5 will work also. On one of my first engine swaps, I was in a similar situation and purchased a Fidanza super light flywheel with an ACT clutch. I was very concerned that it would be too light and that I would not be able to street it. In the end, I was fine with the Fidanza, and I learned to live with it. Either way, I'm sure it will be fine, and you will get used to whatever flywheel you choose; just takes a little seat time.

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