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1995 Honda Civic - Exhaust Notes

Comments, questions, and smart remarks.

Ryan Basseri
Sep 16, 2011

Hey HT, I’m building a K24 motor for my ’95 Civic hatchback, and I’m wondering how much compression is safe to run on 91 octane. I’ll be using custom pistons (when I figure out what compression) and a factory head gasket. I just don’t want to run too much compression and have to worry about detonation. I’m new to K motors, but I’ve built multiple B-series screamers without any problems in the past.
Marcus Pelph

Htup 1109 01+exhaust note+engine Photo 2/2   |   1995 Honda Civic - Exhaust Notes

Marcus, if you are building up a K24 engine, I would keep it under 11.5 compression ratio, and even then it is pushing it a little bit. A lot of guys, including myself, are running the Japanese K20A engine with 11.5 compression on California 91 octane. Technically 11.1 would be a safer suggestion, but when making power is the goal we must push the envelope at all costs! Always remember a proper tune for your engine is the most important thing you can do to have your investment last. This can be overlooked, but it is an extremely important aspect that I will continue to mention.

2017 Honda Civic
$21,500 Base Model (MSRP) 31/40 MPG Fuel Economy

What up, Ryan! Hope you can give me some advice, I’m afraid to ask anything on the forums since it’ll end up in a huge fight, I’m sure! When it comes to doing a homemade wire tuck on a car like my ’90 Civic Si, what is the best way to extend wires? What I mean is, What’s the safest type of connector to use? I want to make sure my wires aren’t going to pull apart in a year or something.

Sergio, I never suggest extending wires. Not because of increased resistance or interference as much as reliability! When you have no choice and must extend wires, I suggest making solder joints in areas with little to no harness strain. You want them in long, straight areas that are not going to be flexed. Another good idea is to use high-quality heat shrink, sometimes a couple of layers thick, since solders have a tendency of poking through the shrink and shorting out. The last suggestion would be to always stagger the solders. Keep them spaced so you do not have a group of joints all in the same place. This technique will cut down on bulky spots in the loom, and have less chance of shorting out due to sharp, poky solder joints.

Give me a hand, HT! I was recently handed down a used ’93 GS-R. I love the car, but I want more power! I know the B17 is a good motor, but it’s just not enough. I want to keep the car all motor, and I’m wondering for daily driving and occasionally hitting the quarter-mile what would be a better setup: B20/VTEC or just building the B17? I know the B17 has a low compression and there’s plenty of cams and bolt-ons out there, but that 2.0L sounds so fun!
Jason K.

Jason, honestly the sky is the limit. You can make huge power on B-series engines; it is just your budget, knowledge, and will to succeed that will hold you back! In my honest opinion I would suggest the setup that I just put in my CRX last year. A relatively stock B18C engine. Upgrades can be made if you choose to squeeze some more power out of it later on down the line, but for reliability and performance, a B18C is amazing. With its high-revving valvetrain and short transmission ratio, it is a blast to drive with throttle response like an on/off switch! Recommending a non-VTEC block like a B20 is tough for me to do because if you miss any important steps, it can be really bad. Making upgrades to the B18C like intake, head porting, valvetrain, cams, ignition, and a engine management will give you great performance without sacrificing reliability. Find yourself a good tuner and make all the modifications really work for you. Good luck!

Greetings, guys, I’m looking for a little direction on my S2000 build. I’ve read a lot of info on boosting these cars, and there seems to be a split down the middle with guys who like superchargers and guys who like turbos. I’m wondering which one would be better for me. I drive the car everyday, but I want to be able to smash on it whenever I feel the urge, and I don’t want to worry about blowing my motor every time I get that urge! I’m only looking at running maybe 10 pounds at most, and I’m not looking to build the bottom end. What do you suggest, turbo or supercharger, and what kit would be right for me?
Lawrence Gossen

I’m a big fan of turbos. Their potential to make serious power and pure enjoyment when the boost comes on is like no other. But in this unique case I would recommend a very high-end supercharger kit. With turbochargers, proper trim, A/R, and intercooler sizing, tuning challenges, oiling and vacuum challenges can all play a role in proper functionality. A turbo system may not be the best choice for you, especially with a goal of 10 psi or less.

Superchargers, with their linear powerbands, make less challenges with sizing and such because the kits are generally made for low boost levels and streetability in mind. Tuning on these setups is generally much easier than turbo systems, but here is where you need to do your research. The management system on your car will either make or break the setup; oftentimes these kits will look over engine management because it can add a hefty price to the overall cost. Please remember to figure this in, and if your kit tries to sell you a piggyback system, opt against that and invest in a proper system! Happy boosting!

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