I’m working on my K24A4 swap that you wrote an article on (Budget K Swap) using the Accord transmission. I want to use K-Pro because I am going turbo. When I asked Hondata, they said, “You need to use a ’02–’04 RSX engine harness and ’02–’04 RSX transmission. The speed sensor will not work properly from other transmissions.”
What ECU do I have to use for K24A4 engine/trans from the Accord and K-Pro? Also, doesn’t K-Pro fix the immobilizer, multiplexer, and VSS—thus eliminating the Dakota Digital box and K-Tuned Black Box?
Since you are going turbo I totally agree that you’ll need some sort of management, and K-Pro is a very good route. Hondata is correct in telling you that you need a ’02–’04 wiring harness. You don’t however need a ’02–’04 tranny, as we’ve seen K-Tuned, Hybrid Racing, and Dakota Digital offering solutions for the ’05+ tranny speed sensor on ’02–’04 ECUs. The Hondata unit allows you to disable/enable the immobilizer as well as the multiplexer, but the speed correction isn’t all that accurate in my experience. I would suggest not touching that window, and just using the speed correction devices I listed. One thing to note is that the K24 and the K20 crankshaft sensors are different. They are pinned in different order as well as relying on different connectors. The easiest solution is to simply purchase a K20 sensor from a ’02–’04 RSX. Good luck with the swap!
Dear Rywire, I had a question about my ’96 Civic EX. My friend has a ’99 EX and it has a different distributor. It fits on there, but the plug doesn’t connect. I was trying to diagnose a distributor because I think mine is bad. I thought it was the same engine, please let me know why it doesn’t work.
This is a very common question that I get almost daily. The ’96–’98 Civic has a 10-position plug, with nine used positions. The ’99–’00 Civic has an eight-position plug with eight used positions. The key difference, besides the plug change on the ’99–’00, is the fact that the igniter wire and the tach signal are the same wire. The ’99–’00 sends a tach signal out of the ECU rather than the tach signal being sourced straight off of the igniter like the ’96–’98. So basically, Honda simplified the loom and used a smaller connector at the same time.
Honda Tuning, I want to make some custom hidden brake lines, and I want to do it myself. What tools do I need, and how do I make a reliable flare?
Very good question, Robert. Many enthusiasts these days are trying to simplify and clean up their braking systems by hiding the proportion valve outside of the engine bay. The best way to start is to understand the differences between a bulkhead, union, flare nut, and a sleeve. It’s always suggested to use stainless steel line when using AN 37-degree flares. Good-quality bending and flaring tools are also a good idea and will save you time and money. I generally use Rigid tools for bending and flaring. AN fittings use 37-degree flares, so make sure the tools you purchase are for this particular degree. I generally start by bending the hard line, then installing the tube nut and sleeve, and finally I make the flare on the end of the line. Next would be to drill a hole in the firewall and install the feed through the bulkhead. Last, you would mate the tube nut to the bulkhead and repeat the steps until finished. Good luck, and if you need to purchase any fittings or kits, rywire.com has you covered!
Hi guys, I was wondering what went wrong when I did my swap on my ’90 Integra. I installed an ITR engine, and now the speedometer won’t work and VTEC doesn’t engage. Any suggestions?
I think I know exactly why. One of the ECU pentameters for engagement on the VTEC computer is speed check. So if there’s no speed input, there will be no VTEC. With the Integra being a ’90, I would imagine you have not wired the electronic speed sensor. What you need to do is figure out if you want to keep the OEM gauge cluster, or change it out for a newer, updated version from a ’96–’01 Integra for example. If you do decide to keep the old cluster, you’ll just need to remove the old speed sensor from your original transmission and insert it along with the cable just like it was on the factory tranny. If you decide you’d rather use a newer cluster, you would wire it into the dash, install the electronic speed sensor, and wire up the three-position plug. The plug should have a black ground wire, a black/yellow 12V switched ignition wire, and a blue/white wire that will need to be wired to the OBD1 ECU at the B10 slot for the signal. This should solve all your problems and VTEC should act properly. Good luck!