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 |   |   |  1982 Porsche 911SC Restored – Part 3: Paint, Reassembly, Conclusion
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1982 Porsche 911SC Restored – Part 3: Paint, Reassembly, Conclusion

WillyWerx gives a master class in proper vintage P-car paint and restoration

Feb 14, 2019
Photographer: WillyWerx

We’ve nearly reached the end of our story recounting the build of Ryan Hoegner’s meticulously reanimated 1982 Porsche 911SC barn find. We’ve seen the car at every stage, from gross rodent apartment complex to restoration in the hands of some of the industry’s best, like Sleepers Speed Shop, RyWire Motorsports Electronics, and many others, to soaking up the booth-car spotlight for Eibach at the 2018 SEMA Show. And for the final chapter, you’re in for a treat.

Over this journey’s previous episodes, we’ve referred numerous times to WillyWerx, aka William Galan, who handled the vast majority of the paint on the project, and also refurbished many factory parts via media blasting and zinc re-plating. Galan figures heavily in this last entry of our build log, providing not just over 150 photos but also copious notes about how the process went down. The man touched every panel on this project car. Read on to see how this 911’s drop-dead looks came together.

It’s almost hard to believe Hoegner’s 911SC was once a neglected heap. In this first group of images, WillyWerx deletes the sunroof – this was the very first modification made to the Porsche once he first took possession.

Side mirror delete Photo 11/180   |   Side Mirror Delete

Here Will deletes the side mirrors – WillyWerx avoided the use of body filler and instead welded in and shaved down metal plugs in areas where the metal was too far gone, including rust spots. Ryan went with GT Racing’s mirrors to replace what came from the Porsche factory.

Apparently a common area for these cars to rust is at the base of the A pillar, which Will found on Ryan’s car. Other problem spots include the leading edges of the front fenders and the bottoms of the doorjambs, and for all of it Will had to fabricate sections of metal to weld in for the stuff he cut out.

Paint removal rear fender Photo 18/180   |   Paint Removal Rear Fender
Paint removal rear fender stripped Photo 22/180   |   Paint Removal Rear Fender Stripped

All layers of the old paint were removed with paint stripper by hand from all panels to prevent the metal from warping. The only areas media blasted were the fender wells, engine bay, interior floorboard, and trunk.

Paint removal floorboard media blasted Photo 23/180   |   Paint Removal Floorboard Media Blasted
Paint removal trunk media blasted Photo 27/180   |   Paint Removal Trunk Media Blasted

Media blasting revealed still more rust spots.

Interior welded in roll bar base plates Photo 28/180   |   Interior Welded In Roll Bar Base Plates
Interior prep Photo 32/180   |   Interior Prep

In this set, Will stopped long enough to grab images of the interior prep work and shaving of brackets for that smooth finish. He also welded in the roll bar mounting plates that were made at Sleepers.

Interior 2 primered Photo 33/180   |   Interior 2 Primered
Interior 2 seam sealer Photo 37/180   |   Interior 2 Seam Sealer

This set marks the start of spraying primer in the interior and laying in the seam sealer. WillyWerx used a direct to metal (DTM) primer as the first coat, allowed it to dry, sanded it by hand, and then applied a high build polyester primer. After that it was dry sanded again with 400-grit sandpaper, then the seam sealer work, and lastly wet sanded with 600-grit.

Body work side Photo 38/180   |   Body Work Side
Body work front Photo 42/180   |   Body Work Front

Moving to the exterior body and fiberglass work, WillyWerx wanted to make sure all the panels were straight, so every gap between panels was measured at 5mm before any primer was ever sprayed.

Body work 2 dtm primer 1st coat fender well Photo 43/180   |   Body Work 2 Dtm Primer 1St Coat Fender Well
Body work 2 dtm primer 1st coat Photo 47/180   |   Body Work 2 Dtm Primer 1St Coat

The primer process began with a coat of DTM primer, which was allowed to dry before it was block sanded with 320-grit. Polyester primer went on next and again allowed to dry and sanded with 320-grit. A third coat of primer was wet block sanded with 400- to 600-grit, and once everything was perfect or close to perfect all the panels had to come off again for paint.

Body work 3 side detail Photo 48/180   |   Body Work 3 Side Detail
Body work 3 panels Photo 52/180   |   Body Work 3 Panels

In this group, you can see the where Will deleted the antenna from one of the front fenders – the rest of the pics are just panels with primer and ready to be block sanded.

Paint work prep cleaning Photo 53/180   |   Paint Work Prep Cleaning
Paint work prep masking Photo 57/180   |   Paint Work Prep Masking

More paintwork prep – here WillyWerx handles all the cleaning and masking in advance of sealer.

Undercoating prep Photo 58/180   |   Undercoating Prep
Undercoating spare tire well Photo 62/180   |   Undercoating Spare Tire Well

WillyWerx even took care of spraying in undercoating for the front trunk, inner fenders, and fender wells.

Paint seal Photo 63/180   |   Paint Seal
Paint and seal Photo 67/180   |   Paint And Seal

And finally we start to see the Olive Green (or Leaf Green, depending on who you talk to) that’s become synonymous with this build. And actually this is not even paint, but sealer, which Will decided to match in color to the hue chosen for paint for better coverage and adhesion. The shell was painted in two sections, the exterior first and then the cabin.

Exterior paint detail Photo 68/180   |   Exterior Paint Detail
Exterior paint A pillar Photo 72/180   |   Exterior Paint A Pillar

Will tells us this is probably the best way to paint a shell, to not do it all at once, that way you can focus on every panel. You can start to see the “wet” look of the paint after shooting four coats of clear coat – yummy!

Interior paint trunk Photo 73/180   |   Interior Paint Trunk
Interior paint rear Photo 77/180   |   Interior Paint Rear

Here we have the trunk and cabin paint, which received the same treatment as the exterior.

Fiberglass mold process masking Photo 81/180   |   Fiberglass Mold Process Masking
Fiberglass mold dash parts Photo 85/180   |   Fiberglass Mold Dash Parts

Did we mention WillyWerx also did the carbon fiber work on this car? Yep, those carbon bits in the dash our courtesy of WW – here he shows us the process of creating the fiberglass mold for the CF trim for the dash gauges.

A little vacuum bagging action during fabrication – making carbon parts is actually what Will was working in when he started to develop an interest in paint and bodywork.

Interior details dash satin black Photo 92/180   |   Interior Details Dash Satin Black
Interior details dash Photo 96/180   |   Interior Details Dash

Here’s a bunch of details from the interior – note the sheet metal part of the dash was revived in satin black, while the factory steering column was cleaned and re zinc plated.

Zinc plating parts before Photo 97/180   |   Zinc Plating Parts Before
Zinc plating parts after Photo 101/180   |   Zinc Plating Parts After

All the factory hardware was cleaned and re-zinc plated – this includes all the hardware for the body panels and all the suspension stuff (as we showed in Part 2 of this build thread).

Suspension zinc plating before Photo 102/180   |   Suspension Zinc Plating Before
Suspension zinc plating Photo 106/180   |   Suspension Zinc Plating

Here’s a set with the suspension hardware de-rusted and then re-plated.

More zinc plating

Dash resto removed old vinyl shaved vent Photo 110/180   |   Dash Resto Removed Old Vinyl Shaved Vent
Dash resto rewrapped Photo 114/180   |   Dash Resto Rewrapped

To restore the dash, WillyWerx skinned the vinyl from the factory console and shaved the vent for a clean look. He then rewrapped it in black Alcantara suede.

WillyWerx tore apart the shifter to refurb it, and even replaced the worn out bushing with a new copper one.

Engine bay before Photo 121/180   |   Engine Bay Before
Engine bay firewall Photo 125/180   |   Engine Bay Firewall

Will mentioned these engine bays come with undercoating all over, but he decided to apply it mostly on the firewall in order to keep the compartment smooth (the undercoating dries with a rough finish) but still prevent heat from radiating into the cabin.

Glass buffed Photo 126/180   |   Glass Buffed
Glass aluminum trim satin black Photo 130/180   |   Glass Aluminum Trim Satin Black

WillyWerx does windows, too! All glass was buffed from both sides to remove water spots and other stains except for the windshield, which was accidentally broken, so they had to replace it with a new one. All the aluminum trim pieces that go between the moldings were restored as well in satin black.

Tail light resto Photo 131/180   |   Tail Light Resto
Tail light resto detail Photo 135/180   |   Tail Light Resto Detail

For the taillights, WillyWerx started by washing and then wet sanding them down with 3,000-grit before buffing them out. He also masked and painted the thin black surround on the lights. The center reflector garnish with the word “Porsche” on it is brand new because they were unable to save the old one.

Deck lid prepped Photo 136/180   |   Deck Lid Prepped
Deck lid grille installed Photo 140/180   |   Deck Lid Grille Installed

Here are a few of the deck lid paintwork, grille, and hardware install.

Trim resto door window Photo 147/180   |   Trim Resto Door Window

Trim restoration – most of it was sprayed satin black, including the door handles. All trim pieces were installed with OEM non-drying sealant tape.

Color sanding first pass Photo 148/180   |   Color Sanding First Pass

The final photos from WillyWerx take a look at color sanding, which was performed with a rotary machine in three steps three weeks after paint – the colors in the pictures aren’t entirely accurate because this was shot on a smartphone, but this is more about the method than the pics. Admitting this is the “old-school” way of doing things, Will also believes this is the best way for a show quality finish. For some of the parts, Will flow coated them again for that extra shine before color sanding them again.

After paint, the car went back to Sleepers from WillyWerx for the final parts of assembly. That included bolting in the custom roll bar as well as installing the Sparco QRT Performance seats, which required fabricator Gary Castillo to fabricate a custom set of seat bases with sliders. According to Gary, these are the lowest seat bases for a G body 911 without cutting out the factory mounts and still running sliders.

And finally, the wheels – custom colored fifteen52 x Magnus Walker Outlaw 003 rims shod in Toyo R888s really tie the build together.

For us, the best parts of getting any assignment like this are (A.) seeing the finished product, and (B.) seeing true craftsmen and artisans in their element – fabricators, painters, mechanics, tuners, and other gurus who leverage lifetimes of experience and achievement to produce some of the best work around. This has been over a year of truly inspiring work following this build, and we feel it deserves all the praise it’s gotten and more because few projects ever reach this level of excellence. Congrats, Ryan, and kudos to all the parties involved in turning this dream into an extremely fierce reality. Now when do we get the keys to drive it?

CONNECT
Sleepers Speed Shop

WillyWerx (Facebook)

Bob Hernandez
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