113,651 miles might seem like a lot. But that's only 8,742 miles per year, being that the car is 13 years old.
All the true car guys out there know what to check for when looking for a used car--you check the engine out for leaks, check for frame damage, look for wear on pedals, and finally drive the car. But before any of that goes down, when you actually see the car for the first time, you'll get a funny feeling in your gut that screams, "this is the one". At least that's what happens to me. I wish that damn gut feeling would work when we pick the winners for Sunday's games (still can't believe Miami beat New England). It took me a little less than two weeks to find the example you see here. And when my four eyes landed on it, I knew it was the one. All the DA's I had scoped out previously were either in San Gabriel Valley or Riverside (aka, the 909). I hate the 210 freeway, so narrowed my search to samples within 15 miles. (By the way, for those living in California, www.Recycler.com should be the first site you check out for good deals on used cars). Looking for a car that's 10-12 years old is a pain. Granted, the cars are old, but age is not a justified prerequisite for neglect. I couldn't believe some of the cars I saw. I could write a few thousand words describing the sheer horror of seeing these poor DA's. But since I'm already on word #234, I won't. I narrowed my search to include only the 92-93 model because of the extra 10hp garnered mainly from the more aggressive camshafts than the 90-91. In addition, I liked the fact that the bumpers, namely the front, look way better than those on the earlier models.
So after gleefully handing the owner $1500, I took the DA home to give the car a more thorough inspection. The car accelerated pretty well. I've owned four DA's, so I have a good idea of how the car is supposed to feel. One problem area I made a mental note of were the brakes. The pedal had a mushy feel to it, which meant the master cylinder was probably shot. Even worse was the steering wheel's insistence to shimmy back and forth when the brakes were applied. Not a good sign.
After removing the front wheels, the culprit reared it's ugly head. The rotors were way past their service limit, and the pads were about as thick as a graham cracker. With a small list of brake parts I needed to complete the job, I took a field trip to my local Kragen Auto Parts and found everything I needed. Or that's how it's supposed to be, right? The master cylinder was in stock, and at $38.99 (plus core), I felt like picking up two. The pads and rotors were another story. They only had Bendix. Why replace when you can upgrade? Each plain vanilla OEM-type replacement rotor cost $50 for the front and $64 for the rear. The OEM-type brake pads were in the same neighborhood, costing $42 and $36 for the front and rear, respectively. That brings the total for STOCK brakes to $306, plus tax. Not cool. I paid the $38 or so for the master cylinder and left the pads and rotors behind with our lazy parts guy at the counter.
Like most geeks, I hopped online as soon as I got home to check and see what the aftermarket had to offer. Tire Rack had a pretty intuitive site, so I checked it out. Sure enough, they had everything for the DA right smack-dab in front of my grille. I ordered a set of EBC Sport Rotors which ran $300 for the set of four, which might sound a bit steep, but I had heard a lot of positive remarks from people who used them, especially all my cousins in England (EBC rotors and pads are made in the U.K.). I also threw down another $53 for the front pads and $44 for the rears, bringing my brake upgrade total to $397, just a shade over $90 more than the stock counterparts. And I wouldn't have to put up with rusty rotor syndrome.
I also picked up a set of Techna-Fit Stainless Steel brake lines to round out the brake package. The Techna-Fit lines are D.O.T. approved and whip-tested before they get shipped. They also come in a ton of colors. I splurged on the blue versions. The coolest part is that they come complete with OEM brake line holders that mount perfectly to the strut body for a factory-like fit. I'll be using these on all my project cars in the future--they are that good.
Before anything, drain all the brake fluid. Since we already swapped out the master cylinder, our brake system was as dry as a popcorn fart.
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Each EBC rotor comes enveloped in a Nox-Rust Vapor paper wrapper. The paper prevents moisture from entering the package... | 
...but these rotors don't really need it. They have been zinc-anodized to prevent rust buildup. Time will tell if it works. |
The EBC rotors are not actually drilled all the way through because doing so would weaken the cross-section of the rotor. The rotors are "dimpled", and are there to help break down the gases that develop during hard braking. | 
First order of business is to thoroughly douse the rotor screws with WD-40. A couple short blasts on the screw head are fine. You should really concentrate on getting in between the vanes of the rotor; remember, the threads on the screw shoot out of the backside of the rotor face, and are exposed to all the elements. |
Though this may seem Cro-Magnonish, I've been removing rotor screws like this for years, so believe me when I say it works. After letting the WD-40 soak for 5-10 minutes, use a hammer and Phillips driver to whack the screw. This will break the screw loose. I can't believe people still drill through their rotor screws. Try this first! | 
Remove the bottom caliper bolts so you can swing the caliper out to gain access to the pads. |
Our calipers were pretty siezed up, so don't be afraid to yank on yours with some muscle. | 
These pads are way beyond gone. I took each one and drained multiple 20-foot fade-away jump-shots from the end of my driveway into the neighbor's trash can. |
Your best bet is to replace the rotor screws upon removal. They only cost $0.75 from the Honda dealer. | 
Even after you remove the rotor screws, the rotor might not want come off the hub. Since we're replacing them, we took a hammer and gave the rotor a whack to free it. |
Removing the stock lines sucks. If you've never replaced them before. Under all the crud lies a silver U-shaped clip. All you need is a good pair of standard pliers to remove it. It's job is to align the brake line to the hard line. Use a good flared wrench to remove the brake line from the hard line. Be careful, because if you strip this, you're S.O.L. | 
Each Techna-Fit line comes complete with the proper retainers to mount the line to the spindle. They fit perfectly. |
The Techna-Fit lines are sweet. Check out the factory-like attention to detail. | 
With all the grime washed away, you can see how the clip fits into place. Use a hammer to knock the sucker back into place. |
Since the Integra is going to be driven daily, we opted for EBC's Green Stuff pads. They feature a soft coating that helps to bed the pads to the rotor quickly. | 
Before you mount them, wash the rotors to remove the factory anti-corrossive coating. The best way to do this is to use soapy water and a sponge. I used brake cleaner because I went overboard when Autozone had their 99-cent brake cleaner sale. I need to use up the 100 or so cans I have stockpiled. |
Installation is the reversal of removal. Or opposite. whatever. | 
Use a decent glob of white lithium grease on the 12mm caliper bolts whenever you replace your brake pads. |
Brake pad prep: remove the backing off the included EBC shims and attatch them to the BACK of the brake pad (the green part). We've seen people replacing their pads in Pep Boys parking lots actually put them on the face of the pad. How they escape the grasp of gravity is beyond me. | 
Stand back and admire your shim installing skillz. |
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