Q
I just bought an '04 350Z and wanted your opinion on what you think is better: supercharger or turbo? I've been looking at the Vortech supercharger, which seems to compete pretty well (horsepower- and torque- wise), with some of the turbo kits like Greddy and Turbonetics. Plus, I have heard that superchargers are easier to maintain. But I've also heard that they waste more gas because they're always running, unlike a turbo. And if you get a turbo, it could always be tuned at a higher psi to make more power. As you can probably tell, I don't have any experience with either. So I was just hoping to get your advice before I decide on what I'm going to do. Thanks, guys.
Brandon
Via the Internet
A
Congrats on the new ride, Brandon! The 350Z definitely makes a great platform for some serious power. And your question is a good one too, as the supercharger vs. turbo debate has been raging on since man started to draw on the walls of his cave. So far, there is no clear winner, as everything has its place in the world. It boils down to 3 basic options. First, there is the turbo. Turbos are efficient and make great horsepower, as well as feature adjustable boost with the twist of a screw or knob. The downside is that they generate a bunch of heat, can be pretty difficult to install (especially on the 350Z) and all setups will have a little lag. And while the turbos themselves are pretty reliable, it takes a really well-designed manifold to handle the stress and heat without cracking. Second is the centrifugal supercharger, which functions basically like a belt-driven turbo. They feature somewhat less lag than a turbo, do not require removal of any of the exhaust components, and make pretty darn good HP. Centrifugal superchargers do require power to work, though. Even at part-throttle motoring, boost is only adjustable by removing and replacing a pulley.
And like a turbo, they work best with a bulky and heavy intercooler. Lastly, there's the positive displacement blowers. These are the traditional type of blower that you see poking out of the hood on domestic race cars and street machines. They have pretty much instant throttle response, even at just off idle, and are usually reasonably easy to install, as well as being pretty badass-looking with the hood up. They typically do not make the top-end HP that a turbo does, use more power to run than turbos or centrifugal blowers and can sometimes be a hood clearance problem. Basically, it depends on what you're trying to accomplish, as well as what's your personal preference. Really you can't go wrong, as they all work well. Vivid Racing sells all 3 types (www.vividracing.com) and depending on your power goals and driving habits, one will get you exactly what you need.
Q
Hi, guys. I own an '02 2.4 L DOHC Dodge Stratus that I want to make into a street sleeper. My goal is to get into the 12's, but no turbo, no nitrous. Any suggestions?
Randy D.
Via the Internet
A
Randy, the only way you are going torun 12's all-motor is if you chain it to a Funnycar. You have a big, heavy car with a 4-cylinder engine that's not really up to containing a lot of power (you didn't specify, but we're guessing that you have an automatic trans, and that's also another a strike against you). You would be way better off saving your money and putting it into a better platform later, rather than sinking a fortune into trying to make this car fast but still ending up with a slow, old Dodge. If you want to get the best from this car without breaking the bank, do a few basic bolt-ons. And if you want to surprise your friends at the strip, the best way to do it is with squeeze.
Q
I just had a few of questions about my '95 Accord with an H22. My question is, I have an air fuel gauge that never, no matter how I drive it, gets out of the lean (it does'nt have a catalytic converter on it). I have 42lbs of fuel pressure, and I know it is getting fuel, but I'm wondering if not having the cat is causing this. My other question is, I was looking at getting some new cams, but after researching the H22A, my understanding is that Type-S cams are better than other aftermarket cams, or very close in duration. So would aftermarket cams with the same duration be beneficial? Thanks for the help; great magazine- I get every issue!
Jeramie-Katy Kehler
Via the Internet
A
There are a couple of problems that could be causing your AF gauge to show a lean condition. The two most common are an exhaust leak upstream or near the sensor, and damage to the sensor or the wiring. It's also possible that the gauge itself is broken, but that is less likely (the missing converter will not affect the sensor). Or it could be that you really are running lean, which would need to be taken care of right away to avoid damaging your engine. As far as the cams go, duration is not the only consideration. Lift and ramp (how fast the valve opens) can be pretty important too, and aftermarket cams have plenty of it. The stock Type-S cams are pretty aggressive and are tuned well to work with the stock engine, but if you are running a few bolt-ons, especially if you've had head work done or have increased the displacement with bigger bores ora stroker kit, then aftermarket cams can really start to make a difference.