A The Eagle rods are a great addition to the supercharger. Lower compression forged pistons are another good move, as they don't expand and melt as quickly as the cast OEM pistons do. A header, exhaust and Hondata K-Pro would almost be mandatory to fully reap the benefits of a supercharger. Now the valve springs and retainers-those are not as necessary as they coincide with aftermarket cams.
Q I bought an aftermarket cold-air intake for my '06 Toyota 4Runner. It's sounds amazing but everytime I put it on, within the first couple days my check engine light comes on. I think it has to do with my air sensor. Do you have any ideas on how to make it run correctly?
Ricky Singleton
Mishawaka, IN
A Toyotas have a very sensitive mass air flow (MAF) sensor. With the installation of the new intake, some dirt could have gotten on the sensor. Simply remove the two screws and pull out the MAF. Then use some electronics parts cleaner to clean it. Re-install and the light should go away.
Q I have an '01 GSR. The head gasket was leaking so I decided to change it out myself. I was not too worried about it as I have a buddy who works at Honda, so I could get all specs that I needed. However, when I was removing the head bolts I noticed half of them twisted right out with no struggle. Apparently the threads inside the block became stripped and came out with the bolts. What I am wondering is what next step you would take. I do not really want to do any drilling myself because of the possibility of minute errors, but is it worth it to get all holes drilled and have time-serts installed at a machine shop, or should I take that money and buy a B20B and assemble the block and head myself?
Joe Matthews
Via the Internet
A Stripped head bolt threads are a very common problem on the B series engines. If done correctly, the time-serts will work fine. But we have seen them done incorrectly, and they just slip out again when torqued. The B20B option would save you money, since you can probably sell the GSR block for much more. But B20Bs have a really low compression ratio, which would only be good if you're planning on forced induction, such as a turbo or supercharger. Because the B20B was designed for non performance cars, it has more torque but also has a inferior rod to stroke ratio, keeping the redline low. The B18C has a better ratio along with a crank girdle allowing it to rev much higher. We say stick with the B18C. Just get the time-serts done right.
Q Right now I have a '93 Honda Civic DX sedan. I'm swapping out the stock D15 for a JDM B16A from a Civic SiRII. I had been ordering parts through a Honda specialist that had done swaps like this, but in the last few months, he has closed his shop, leaving me having to call dealers and order parts myself. My question to you is this: is the JDM B16A engine equivalent to the USDM B16A2 engine? I have seen multiple sites that suggest this but I needed to know from an expert and not just a random forum. Thanks for the help.
Shane Mikesky
Via the Internet
A Well, a Civic SiRII can mean either it came from a '88-'91 EF or a '92-'95 EG chassis. The main difference is the cable transmission (EF) versus the hydraulic one (EG). Assuming you have a B16A from a EG SiRII, this should be a straight bolt in for your '93 Civic. If you need replacement parts or missing parts, you can order things from a '94-'96 Del Sol VTEC B16A3. You'll need all four motor mounts, axles, shift linkage, computer and distributor. The B16A2 is from a '99-'00 Civic Si, and you will not be able to use the mounts nor computer from that car.