GM Stage Two Performance For The Supercharged LSJ Ecotec - Power Up

GM Performance Stage Two Kit-A Slap And Tickle For Your Supercharged Ecotec With A 36hp Happy Ending

By Gim Dandy, Photography by Ionna Cobalt

Any hip hopper worth his bling can tell you that Tony Montana said that once you get the power then you get the women. If it's truly that easy to snag a chica then Jonny should rely on GM Performance Parts instead of his customized pink and purple Air Max's. Rather than suffer through the indignity of pastel-colored kicks, anyone who rolls a Saturn Ion Red Line ('04 and up) or Chevy Cobalt SS Supercharged ('05 and up) can choose between two performance upgrade kits, called Stage One and Stage Two, that produce real power increases, are affordable, and can be installed by the average enthusiast (uh, that would be you).

The Stage One and Stage Two performance upgrade kits were developed by the actual engineering nerd-herd from the GM Powertrain, GM Performance Division and GM Performance Parts brain trust so you know this bacon will sizzle. These kits are incredibly easy to install and make a dramatic difference in power output because the people that originally developed the LSJ 2.0 L Ecotec engine went back and got the most performance from it with these Staged kits. Even better, the team was able to achieve this power increase while maintaining full 50 state emissions status, meeting the formidable requirements for California Air Resources Board (CARB) Executive Order (E.O.) certification. Or if you prefer plain English-these parts are smog legal.

While the LSJ Ecotec engine is rated at 205hp at 5,600rpm and 200 lb-ft of torque at 4,400rpm, the Staged kits bump the power considerably. The Stage One kit raises the horsepower and torque output to 230 hp at 6,800rpm and 200 lb-ft at 5,600rpm. Even better, the Stage Two kit puts out 241 hp at 6,400rpm and 218 lb-ft at 5,400rpm. Those of you who did well in math know that's a 36 hp gain. Now that's a spicy meatball!

To show you how easy this is we're going to walk you through the install of a Stage Two system on a 2006 Chevy Cobalt SS-SC.

The Stage Two performance upgrade kit for the supercharged Ecotec 2.0 liter engine (RPO LSJ) consists of four high-flow fuel injectors, a smaller diameter pulley and properly-sized belt, and a dealer installed 'calibration' to unleash the newfound power.

The Stage Two performance upgrade kit for the supercharged Ecotec 2.0 liter engine (RPO LS
These are all the tools you'll need to install the Stage Two performance upgrade kit: a small flat screwdriver, 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch ratchets and extensions, various sockets (10mm, 14mm deepwell, T30 Torx) and some open-end wrenches (8-, 10-, 21- and 24mm). An 'lb-in' torque wrench is needed to install all the fasteners on the Stage Two kit as every fastener that needs to be reinstalled on the vehicle should be torqued to 89 lb-in or 18 lb-ft.

These are all the tools you'll need to install the Stage Two performance upgrade kit: a sm
To begin, remove the relay controlling the fuel pump from the fuse block. The fuel pump relay is located towards the rear of the fuse block. Then, start the engine and idle it until it stumbles, then shut it off. Reinstall the fuel relay in the fuse block and move to the trunk to disconnect the negative battery cable (10mm nut) from the battery. Let the engine cool off before beginning your work.

To begin, remove the relay controlling the fuel pump from the fuse block. The fuel pump re

Unbolt the two T30 Torx screws holding the engine cover and remove the 10mm bolts on two brackets holding the fuel line onto the engine. Then loosen the 24mm fuel line nut with a 21mm open-end wrench situated on the fuel rail anchor nut (shown) with a rag under the fuel line fitting for fuel leakage. Remove the temperature sender and coolant steam pipe also.

Unbolt the two T30 Torx screws holding the engine cover and remove the 10mm bolts on two b
After pivoting the fuel line off the front of the engine and laying it on the driver side of the engine bay, blow off and/or vacuum the top of the engine to remove any debris. Pull the fuel rail/fuel injector assembly out of the cylinder head. This should require minimal force. Make sure the fuel injector plastic 'inserts' stay in the cylinder head. If the inserts come out, reinstall them into the head after wiping a light coat of the Vaseline you keep handy on the O-ring seal.

After pivoting the fuel line off the front of the engine and laying it on the driver side
Remove the air inlet tube attached to the throttle body on the blower by loosening the 8mm hose clamp bolts and sliding it off.

Remove the air inlet tube attached to the throttle body on the blower by loosening the 8mm

Now, remove the many electrical and hose connections on the blower. These will include the MAP sensor (shown), brake booster hose, evap purge line, boost control vacuum hose and intercooler reservoir bracket. These will all need to be hooked up after the blower is reinstalled.

Now, remove the many electrical and hose connections on the blower. These will include the
Remove the four 10mm bolts holding the throttle body and gasket on the blower. Pivot the throttle body away from the blower to allow blower removal.

Remove the four 10mm bolts holding the throttle body and gasket on the blower. Pivot the t
Relax the blower belt tensioner with a 15mm wrench and remove front drive belt by hand.

Unbolt the four 6mm bolts holding the blower onto the intake manifold and remove blower. Cover the inlet on the intake to prevent debris from falling into the engine and causing damage.

Unbolt the four 6mm bolts holding the blower onto the intake manifold and remove blower. C
Rest the pulley on the 'press plate' with the blower hanging below and use a spacer to push the shaft out of the stock pulley.

Rest the pulley on the 'press plate' with the blower hanging below and use a spacer to pus
Install the Stage Two blower pulley hub by carefully pulling it onto the blower shaft with an 8x1.25mm pitch threaded rod pulley installer.

Install the Stage Two blower pulley hub by carefully pulling it onto the blower shaft with

Install the smaller Stage Two blower pulley on the Stage Two hub and torque the four provided fasteners with the provided tool to 18 lb-ft in a radial pattern.

Install the smaller Stage Two blower pulley on the Stage Two hub and torque the four provi
Reinstall the now-Stage Two upgraded blower on the engine intake manifold. Make sure the blower aligning pins are seated in the intake manifold and that the intake-to-blower gasket is in place. Thread the new blower belt over the pulley. Torque the 6mm bolts to 18 lb-ft. Install throttle body and gasket, torquing the four bolts to 89 lb-in. Install other components removed in previous steps.

Reinstall the now-Stage Two upgraded blower on the engine intake manifold. Make sure the b
Remove the injector electrical connectors on each of the injectors by depressing the connector lock tab and pulling up. Remove the injectors from the fuel rail by pulling the 'C' shaped metal lock tabs off the side of the fuel injectors with a flat screwdriver-saving them for reuse. Note the 'clocking' of the fuel injector, the new injectors need to be installed in the same position. Lube up each of the O-rings on the fuel injectors with Vaseline. Preinstall the fuel injector rail hold-down clips on all four injectors.

Remove the injector electrical connectors on each of the injectors by depressing the conne

Now that you know how to safely remove the injectors you can install the Stage Two injectors/rail onto the engine after checking to make sure the green washer and blue O-ring are seated in the fuel rail fitting. Make sure the injector wiring is not crushed between the mounting points before torquing down the two hold-down bolts. Install all previously removed wiring, lines and fasteners.

Now that you know how to safely remove the injectors you can install the Stage Two injecto
Install the battery cable and turn the ignition key to the 'on' position to check for fuel system leaks. If there are no leaks, crank the engine until it starts and let it run for a few minutes. Check the fuel rail again for leaks once everything has come up to operating temperature. With no leaks, shut the engine off and install the engine cover.

Install the battery cable and turn the ignition key to the 'on' position to check for fuel
Once the parts are installed, immediately and carefully drive the vehicle to a GM dealership to receive the performance calibration... Finally, slap on the supplied EO sticker over the existing engine sticker to signify the 50-state legality of this system (and to keep the po-po at bay). Make sure you give her premium fuel to allow you to break people off by the largest of margins-on a sanctioned track of course.

Once the parts are installed, immediately and carefully drive the vehicle to a GM dealersh

The Stage One and Two systems are upgradeable, meaning you can install a Stage One kit first and eventually step up to the Stage Two configuration with the Stage Two upgrade kit. Use these part numbers to order your Stage One, Stage Two or the Stage One-to-2 Upgrade Kit from your local GM Performance Parts dealer today (go to www.goodwrench.com for a dealer locator).
17801947 - Stage One
17803229 - Stage Two
17803230 - Stage Two upgrade kit (add to Stage One)

INSTALL DIFFICULTY: Intermediate

MSRP: Stage One Kit-$500.00 (includes higher-flow fuel injectors and ECU calibration; Stage Two Kit-$750.00 (includes Stage One parts plus a smaller supercharger pulley and drive belt).

PROS: 36 hassle-free, smog-legal ponies

CONS: Your lazy ass and the reasons you won't get off of it.

VERDICT: Sometimes OEM aftermarket offerings are of the wood-grain variety and sometimes we're lucky enough to get stuff like this. Easy installation, big power gains, 50-state legal, and OE quality-it just doesn't get any better than this.