Carbing Chassis Braces Install - Car Bing!

2. After you put the Carbing bar in place (making sure the smaller holes face towards the front of the car), you can reinstall the two 17mm bolts, hand-tightening them for now.

3. Before tightening the two 17mm bolts you'll need to compress or "load" the suspension. You can load the suspension by lowering the car onto jack stands placed beneath the outermost rear suspension pivot points. While not the safest method, Yamz and the Tein Tein twins used two jacks because that's how they roll.

4. Once you've re-torqued the 17mm bolts, your Carbing Rear Lower Bar should look something like this.

1. For the Front Tower Bar, start by removing the 12mm bolts (all eight of them) from the factory strut bar as well as the six strut nuts from the coilover perches. You should also slip the cruise control cable from the factory bar and move it aside. Once you've removed the factory brace you can install the Carbing Front Tower bar and hand-tighten the bolts and strut nuts.

2. Under hard braking your mighty foot can actually deflect the firewall (and master cylinder), causing a loss of pedal pressure and stopping performance. The Carbing bar is equipped with an MCS (Master Cylinder Stopper) to reduce this movement. Once the Carbing bar is in place you should adjust the MCS to 0.04-inch. If you don't have a tiny tape measure a penny will do in a pinch.

3. Now you can tighten the eight 12mm bolts and six strut nuts. The Carbing Front Tower Bar fits tightly against the firewall providing Nads with ample room to work on his car. But this doesn't matter since Nads never works on his car (you suck, Nads - staff).