 7. Bolt the oil pan to the...  7. Bolt the oil pan to the engine but apply gasket sealant beforehand. Refer to your manual for the proper torque specs. |  8. Unless you have a forklift...  8. Unless you have a forklift at home, we'd recommend a cherry picker to move the engine around. The RB is obviously a much bigger engine to try and squeeze in, so it's probably better to go in from down under. |  9. Some last minute ideas...  9. Some last minute ideas you may want to think about while the engine's out: change the rear main seal, water pump, timing belt and front main seal. Also, you must use a clutch that's strong enough to hold the power, even if it's a stock RB. |
 10. Custom heater hoses will...  10. Custom heater hoses will have to be used since neither the factory SR or RB hoses will work. You can find these at a local auto parts store. |  11. Bolt the clutch plate...  11. Bolt the clutch plate and flywheel on; make sure you use the right bolt length for an aftermarket flywheel, especially if you're using a twin or triple disc setup. |  12. With the help of a friend,...  12. With the help of a friend, attach the transmission to the long block, then bolt the starter back on and install the lower harness, alternator and oil pressure sending unit. Attach the Syko transmission brackets by using only the rear bolt first, and screwing it in downward. The other bolts will go from the bottom up once the engine's in. |
 13. Bolt the engine mounts...  13. Bolt the engine mounts on top of the RB crossmember. Make sure each mount is installed accordingly to the left or right side (sides are indicated on mounts). |  14. Raise the car and prepare...  14. Raise the car and prepare to guide the engine assembly into the engine bay as you lower it back down. Double check for proper clearance between the downpipe and steering shaft as well as the space between the bell housing and transmission tunnel. |  15. Complete the transmission...  15. Complete the transmission crossmember bracket installation by inserting the front bolts that go into the chassis. If finding a R33 transmission crossmember proves too difficult, you can use one from an automatic USDM 240SX. |
 16. Once the engine's bolted...  16. Once the engine's bolted into place, you'll notice that the sway bar bracket arms will be uneven. The longer side must sit in the step of the spacer properly, and the sway bar bracket must be rotated 180 degrees (flipped front to rear). At this time, it's also wise to replace the bushings with stiffer Nismo bushings (shown) by removing the rack and pinion. |  17. For RB25 swappers, Syko's...  17. For RB25 swappers, Syko's downpipe is designed to replace the stock turbo exhaust elbow (O2 housing) and downpipe, and comes with two twelve-point 10mm ARP bolts, which should be installed in the two center holes of the turbo flange (refer to instructions). The smaller bolt heads will make it easier for you to work a wrench between the bolt and the side of the downpipe. Install the provided driveshaft and catalytic converter or test pipe (not included). RB26 owners can simply install the new downpipe onto the factory exhaust elbows. |  18. Since your car's now a...  18. Since your car's now a combination of Skyline and 240SX, you need to make a few modifications to the power steering pressure hose/line by removing the lower hose bracket and looping the line into place. The other line/hose then becomes your return line. Since this line loops around the crossmember on the '91-and-up KA24DE and you're no longer using the original crossmember, it's time to improvise. Attach a 3/8-inch hose to the metal line coming off the rack and pinion unit, which is then connected to the power steering reservoir. You should also place a small cooler inline on this hose by using either an aftermarket power steering or automatic transmission cooler, or by making a loop out of 3/8-inch metal line. For '89-90 240s, use '91-94 power steering lines. |