Installing An AEM True Boost Controller

12. Get another zip tie and fasten the vacuum line down.

13. Find a vacuum line on the other side of the throttle body (one off the fuel pressure regulator will work) and insert a plastic "T". Run a vacuum line to the "T" with the other end long enough to reach the inside of the car.

14. There should be a hole in the firewall that goes into the driver's compartment. Run the power and ground wires as well as the vacuum hose from the "T" through this hole and under the dash.

15. Pop the charge pipe back into place.

16. Carefully tighten the hose clamps on both ends of the charge pipe: You don't want these to blow off, but you also don't want to clamp them too tight because they can crush the aluminum piping.

17. Under the dash, loosen the five screws that hold up the plastic panel.

18. Locate an accessory power and a good ground to tap in the wires for the boost controller.

19. Use a teat, um, reducer to attach the vacuum line from the engine compartment to the back of the TRU-BOOST unit.

20. Plug the harness into the back of the TRU-BOOST unit as well.

21. Find a good spot to mount the TRU-BOOST. Since it works as a boost gauge too, keep it where you can see it easily. It fits with most A-pillar mounts.

22. Pry off the rubber door seal and tuck the wires into the crevice.

23. Put the plastic under the panel back into place and replace the five screws you took out earlier.

24. We used an A-pillar pod to mount our TRU-BOOST. When the ignition is off, the face blacks out.

25. The TRU-BOOST has a digital readout for boost that runs through the different settings, not to mention the cool LED lights around the face that light up.