Mazda RX-7 Install - Intake and Intercooler Upgrade

If you have a last-generation RX-7 chances are it's got some decent miles on it; you might already be on the second or even third engine. And if you're totally retarded like us, you've been running all-stock stuff. Which means it's time to switch out those crusty parts to lower temps in the engine bay. Why switch it up? The stock intercooler is nothing more than a glorified heat sink, the airbox actually prevents the engine from breathing, and let's not forget the factory air separator tank-basically just a piece of plastic prone to cracking.

These less-than-efficient stock pieces coupled with the stock hood make for some toasty engine temps. Increased water, oil and intake temps mean a higher chance of detonation and that equals bad real fast. We contacted Pettit Racing and Shine Auto Project to help us swap out all the old crap and liven up the engine with some venting. All the work was done by long-time rotary tuner Yoshiya Yajima at NepTune Speed in Huntington Beach, CA. We dropped by just after he had gotten back from surfing, lucky us.

1. Remove all the excess crap: the stock airbox, intercooler duct, intercooler, piping, battery, tray and air pump. This should free up a ton of room. Note that using the Pettit Racing Coolcharge III requires at least new belts for the alternator and water pump (we also changed the two respective pulleys). Oh yeah, we'll need to relocate the battery, too.
1. Remove all the excess crap: the stock airbox, intercooler duct, intercooler, piping, b
2. Time to start installing some of Pettit Racing's goodies. We'll start with the metal Air Separator Tank (AST). Simply remove the hose clamps from the stock AST and reconnect them to the Pettit Racing AST (we'll install the AST into the new position later).
2. Time to start installing some of Pettit Racing's goodies. We'll start with the metal A
3. Install the compression tube/elbow using the four stock nuts that you removed earlier (slide the silicone couplers over the throttle body elbow and intercooler). Position the fiberglass intercooler duct under the front upper cross member. Now installthe Coolcharge III intercooler. Place the charge tube between the compression tube and intercooler.
3. Install the compression tube/elbow using the four stock nuts that you removed earlier

4. Install the silicone hoses on the passenger-side intercooler piping and connect it to the Y-pipe and intercooler. Tighten down the hose clamps. Congrats, you've installed the Pettit Racing Coolcharge III, let's move on. (Yoshiya installed our Coolcharge III in less than ten minutes.)
4. Install the silicone hoses on the passenger-side intercooler piping and connect it to
5. Before we get to installing the intakes and brace let's look at the shield. The metal shield will mount up to the stock electric fan and plastic hardware, however, some trimming may be necessary to accommodate certain aftermarket fans. (If you don't do this step the hood may not close, you lazy bastard. So do it.) Remove the adhesive's cover and place the provided foam on the top of the shield.
5. Before we get to installing the intakes and brace let's look at the shield. The metal
6. After you've trimmed enough off the heat shield, mount it on the area closest to the passenger side. Install the heat shield-it might need to be flexed to fit in the right spot. If you're keeping your air pump, use the curved hose from the stock airbox on the EAM manifold. Set the EAM manifold in place and connect the hoses, but don't bolt anything down just yet. As a side note, it's not really required to use this, especially if you've ditched the air pump already.
6. After you've trimmed enough off the heat shield, mount it on the area closest to the p

7. Time to install the Petting Racing TKT cold-air intake. Tighten the lower clamp first, then position the assembly so the top element angles slightly downward. Tighten it all up and we can move back onto the AST.
7. Time to install the Petting Racing TKT cold-air intake. Tighten the lower clamp first,
8. Remove the 14mm alternator mounting bolt and place it through the hole in the air separator tank mounting bracket. Reinstall the alternator bolt so that the bracket faces toward the front of the car. Check the tension on the belt and adjust if necessary. Use the provided plastic ties and mount the AST away from the pulleys and belts. Check the coolant level and top off if necessary.
8. Remove the 14mm alternator mounting bolt and place it through the hole in the air sepa
9. We're pretty much done with the engine bay. Check all the hoses, belts and clamps and make sure that none of them are loose. Bolt the strut tower bar back on. Do not lower the hood until removing the hood support (keep it in the trunk).
9. We're pretty much done with the engine bay. Check all the hoses, belts and clamps and