Swap a B16A Into Your Honda

Im stupid. I should have invested in stocks early on in my life as I ventured out into the work force. The 401K plan pamphlet stares at me everyday, but I neglect to give into its whip appeal. I could be a millionaire! OK, maybe not a millionaire, but at least enough to keep my bill collectors off the phone. Its almost like what I should have done with my old EF Civic: put in a B16 motor to replace the single cam. Its the best move, upgrading a cool stock motor to a really cool stock motor. But no, I refused, and people gave me a hard time on the streets. Today, its a little different. Ive gotten into stocks, and Ive gotten into motor swaps. While taking a gamble with money is always, well, a gamble, a motor swap isnt. For the money, its the best upgrade you can get, especially if you live on the single tip. You gain an extra 45 hp easily over your stock motor. Good enough? We think so. Chris at Autolink felt the need to drop some knowledge on choosing the best stock option swap for an 8891 Civic: the B16A. Look and learn.

1. It’s always handy to keep a Helms manual around during an engine removal and installation, so our recommendation to you: Make sure you have it 24-7! It is the best tool to have when working on your car. Following the recommended removal procedure, remove the old engine using an engine hoist. Leave the rear engine mount (located against the firewall) in its place, since it will be easier to remove with the motor out of the car. The owner of this particular Civic had a ZC motor previously, but the installation for the original DX/Si D16A will be exactly the same.
1. It’s always handy to keep a Helms manual around during an engine removal and insta
2a. Once the motor has been removed, go to the rear engine mount and remove the bolt that goes through the mount. After you’ve done that, you can remove the engine mount bracket and pull the mount off.
2a. Once the motor has been removed, go to the rear engine mount and remove the bolt that

2b. Notice these four holes? On the left side are the pre-fabbed engine mount holes for the U.S. engines, and on the right are the mount holes for the Japan-spec motors. Convenient, eh? You’ll be using the right side for the B16A.
2b. Notice these four holes? On the left side are the pre-fabbed engine mount holes for
3. Remove the front crossmember and trim it between the rubber pieces. If this step isn’t done, your header will not fit. For the Place mount kit, the motor sits slightly more forward than if you were to reposition and reweld your mounts or if you were to use a different mount kit.
3. Remove the front crossmember and trim it between the rubber pieces. If this step isn&
4. It’s recommended that you install a new clutch and throwout bearing prior to installing your motor. Your flywheel should also be resurfaced to prevent premature clutch failure. Bolt the tranny onto the long block.
4. It’s recommended that you install a new clutch and throwout bearing prior to ins

5. Prepare the wiring harness by securing it to its corresponding mounting brackets. Check to make sure that your sensors function properly. If your B16A motor is a 5-series, then you must swap the vehicle speed sensor to an older non-electric unit.
5. Prepare the wiring harness by securing it to its corresponding mounting brackets. Che
6. Mount the fuel rail onto the intake manifold and fit the fuel injectors onto the fuel rail. The stock injectors should work fine with this swap, but if you want them balanced or upgraded, now is the time to do so. You should also check and replace, if needed, the timing belt, oil/water pump, and any other part that requires maintenance.
6. Mount the fuel rail onto the intake manifold and fit the fuel injectors onto the fuel
7. If your wiring harness isn’t an ’88–’91 Si harness, you’ll need to find one to put in plus four additional wires: VTEC activation, VTEC oil pressure, secondary O2 sensor, and knock sensor.
7. If your wiring harness isn’t an ’88–’91 Si harness, you’ll ne

8. For an added bonus, we used a set of Place Racing motor mounts in place of the stock mounts. These allow you to use your stock mounts without having to cut and weld them to accept a B-series motor. The mounts are constructed of 5mm carbon-steel plates that have been welded together, and the polyurethane mount bushings will withstand a great deal of stress.
8. For an added bonus, we used a set of Place Racing motor mounts in place of the stock
9. Bolt the rear mount in first on the right side mount holes (remember step 2b?). Doing it this way will be easier as opposed to leaving the mount on the engine and trying to tighten it down with the motor in the way. Who says we don’t look out for you?
9. Bolt the rear mount in first on the right side mount holes (remember step 2b?). Doing
10. Bolt in the timing belt mount to the engine prior to dropping the motor in. You can leave the transmission mount off until the motor has been dropped. Carefully lower the new motor into the engine bay with an engine hoist. This may take a few tries as to avoid damaging anything in the engine bay or on the motor itself. Tighten down the timing belt and rear mount as well as including the side transmission mount.
10. Bolt in the timing belt mount to the engine prior to dropping the motor in. You can

11. It’s a shame that some of your stock parts won’t carry over onto the B16, like the throttle cable. On this particular swap, you should use a ’91 Integra throttle cable.
11. It’s a shame that some of your stock parts won’t carry over onto the B16,
12. You’ll also have to use a ’91 Integra clutch cable for the transmission. Make sure you’re running a cable clutch– activated tranny and not a hydraulic (used in ’92–up Civics). If you’re lucky, you might wind up with an LSD-equipped mission from the engine supplier. If you do, our hats off to you.
12. You’ll also have to use a ’91 Integra clutch cable for the transmission. M
13. Bolt on the stock exhaust manifold or install a new, aftermarket header like the DC Sports 4-1 ceramic-coated header that you see here. Make sure you connect the O2 sensor prior to firing the car up. Reinstall the crossmember after you have modified it to fit with the new header and motor.
13. Bolt on the stock exhaust manifold or install a new, aftermarket header like the DC

14. Add/replace any hoses, ignition components (wires and spark plugs), and the like. Now is your chance to upgrade the stock radiator, as well, but you should do just fine with the one you have. Chris says hybrid overheating is usually caused by faults within the cooling system and not a stock radiator.
14. Add/replace any hoses, ignition components (wires and spark plugs), and the like. No
15. Run the four added wires of the engine wiring harness to the harness that is routed under the battery tray to the ECU in the passenger-side kick panel. Newer (’92–up) wiring harnesses have leads for the wires to fit into on the plug itself. If you use a complete wiring harness from a GS-R, you can plug everything in from the dash to the engine compartment. Plug in the B16 ECU (should be labeled PR3 or PW0 on side identification label).
15. Run the four added wires of the engine wiring harness to the harness that is routed
16. You’ll need to use ’91 Integra axles but in order to make them fit, you’ll have to remove the ring on the inner side of the hub bearing. Now would also be a good time to service your brakes, check your suspension and scratch your butt (just don’t sniff your fingers afterward).
16. You’ll need to use ’91 Integra axles but in order to make them fit, you

17. Prior to installing the shift linkage, you’ll need to shorten it accordingly to fit it based on which mount kit is used to install the engine. The only thing left to do is add oil, check/change tranny fluid, add coolant, and check the manual for anything else. Once that’s good to go, you’re done.
17. Prior to installing the shift linkage, you’ll need to shorten it accordingly to